heardfiretrap

MessageFrom:SamPopkin[spopkin@ucsd.
edu]Sent:Tuesday,January27,20049:31PMTo:SamPopkinSubject:THEKINGDOMOFSILENCE;AjobataSaudinewspaperoffersararelookinsideaclosedsocietyCopyright2004TheCondeNastPublications,Inc.
http://www.
newyorker.
comTheNewYorkerJanuary5,2004SECTION:FACT;AReporterAtLarge;Pg.
48LENGTH:19990wordsHEADLINE:THEKINGDOMOFSILENCE;AjobataSaudinewspaperoffersararelookinsideaclosedsociety.
BYLINE:LAWRENCEWRIGHTBODY:"Thisisanewspaper"IaskedthecabdriverinJeddah,SaudiArabia,ashepulledupinfrontofthelavishnewheadquartersofOkaz,themostpopularpaperinthekingdom.
Ihadexpectedtheusualdingyfiretrapthatcharacterizesnewspaperofficesallovertheworld,butthisbuildingloomedoverthehumbleneighborhoodlikearoyalpalace.
WorkmenwerestilllayingmarbletilesonthestepsasIenteredatoweringatrium.
EnviousreportersforothernewspaperscallOkaz'snewheadquarterstheTajMahal.
SaudimenwhomItooktobereporterssolemnlypassedby,wearingcrispwhiterobesandredcheckedheadscarves.
Ifeltoutofplaceandunderdressed.
Newspapersareasurprisinglygoodbusinessinacountrywherethetruthissocarefullyguarded.
Membersoftheroyalfamily,AlSaud,areobsessivelyconcernedabouttheirimage;theyownorcontrolmostoftheSaudipress,whichdominatestheArabworld.
Withinthekingdom,therearemorethanadozenpapersonthenewsstandseverymorning.
Themostauthoritativeofthem,andthemostprogressive,Al-HayatandAsharqAlAwsat,areownedbySaudiprincesbutpublishedinLondon.
TheyareconstrainedbythesametaboosthatcrippleallSaudipublications,however:nothingprovocativecanbesaidaboutIslam,thekingdom'sofficialreligion;thegovernment,whichiseffectivelyledbyCrownPrinceAbdullah;ortheroyalfamily,whichisheadedbyKingFahd.
Anotherpaper,AlWatan,partlyownedbyPrinceBandarbinKhalid,modelsitselfonUSAToday.
ButOkazremainsthenationalfavorite.
Onthecoffeetableinthelobbywasacopyofthatmorning'sedition,January28,2003.
ItwaslikeanArabicversionoftheNewYorkPost,filledwithHollywoodgossip,andstoriesofdjinnswhohauntthesanddunes.
Althoughostensiblyindependent,OkaziscloselyidentifiedwithPrinceNaifbinAbdulAzizAl-Saud,theMinisterofInterior,whoalsocontrolsthesecretpoliceandthemedia.
Upaflightofstairs,inamodestwingbyitself,istheSaudiGazette,anEnglish-languagedailypublishedbyOkaz,whichhadhiredmeforthreemonthstohelptrainyoungSaudireporters.
Thejobofferedmeawayofgettingintothekingdomaftermorethanayearoffruitlessattemptstogetavisaasajournalist.
WorkingattheGazettewouldalsogivemeavantageontheSaudipress,whichhadstruggledforadecadetoliberateitselffromthebondsofgovernmentcontrol.
In1990,justbeforetheGulfWar,thegovernmentforcedthemediatowaitaweekbeforereportingonSaddamHussein'sinvasionofKuwait.
Satellitenewscoverage,whichemergedasaforceduringthatconflict,leapedborders,asdidtheInternet.
Thepressgainedameasureoffreedom.
Suddenly,therewerestoriesfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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htm(1of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageaboutcrime,druguse,divorce,eventhepresenceofaidsinthekingdom.
Forthefirsttime,Saudisweretakingacriticallookattheircountryanditsproblems.
ButafterSeptember11ththemediaretreated;asaresult,itlargelymissedthebiggeststoryinthekingdom'smodernhistory,blindingitselftothedangerwithinitsownsociety.
WalkingaroundtheGazette,IsoonfoundDr.
MuhammadShoukany,thedeputyeditor-in-chief,sittinginadimofficeoverlookingthenewsroom.
Therewasatelevisioninonecorner,andaMexicansoapoperawasplayingonmute.
LikemostSaudimen,heworeawhitethobe,ashirtlikegownthatreachedhisankles.
Hisheadscarf,calledagutra,wasfoldedonthecouch,butheworethewhiteskullcapthatgoesunderit,whichgavehimapastoralair.
Heisastockyman,witharoundfaceandanarrowsalt-and-peppermustache.
Atheart,heisanacademic,notanewsman,andheteachescoursesinEnglishliteratureatKingAbdulAzizUniversity,inJeddah.
Aswetalked,itseemedtomethathiseyeswerealmostretractable,recedingintoslittedboredomwhenthesubjectwasnotofinteresttohim,thenbulgingwithexcitementwhenhewasfullyengaged-aswhenhetoldmeabouthisgreatpassion,JosephConrad.
"SomeofthecharactersinhisearlystoriescomefromtheHadhramaut,whichiswherethebinLadenscomefrom,"Shoukanysaid.
"Also,in'LordJim'thereisoneoftheearliestmentionsinliteratureofaWahhabipreacher.
Conradisdefinitelyamanofourtime!
"ShoukanyassumedthatIhadcometothecountrywithasetofstereotypesaboutSaudis.
IhadspentsometimeintheArabworld-mywifeandItaughtfortwoyearsattheAmericanUniversityinCairolongago,andIhadtravelledinandreportedfromtheMiddleEast-butIhadneverbeeninthekingdombefore.
MostofmyencounterswithSaudishadbeeninCairoorLondon,andtheseSaudiswereeitherpoliticaldissidentsordisaffectedscholars.
"Allweaskisthatyoujudgeusonourownterms,"Shoukanysaid.
Heledmethroughthenewsroom,wheretwodozeneditorsandtypesetters,mostofthemIndianexpatriates,wereworkingonAppleG4s.
Icouldseelayoutsforthenextmorning'spaperonthescreens.
ThereadershipoftheGazetteisdrawnlargelyfromthemillionsofforeignworkers,liketheseeditors,whodomuchoftheessentiallaborinthekingdom,fromdrivingcabstomanningtheoilfields.
Worldandnationalnewsisatthefrontofthepaper,withseparatepagesfortheIndiansubcontinentandthePhilippines,wheremostoftheexpatscomefrom.
Thereisalsoaculturesection,asportspage(primarilysoccerandcricket),businessnews,andeditorials.
Mostoftheinternationalnewscomesfromwireservices.
OnFriday,Islam'sholyday,thereisapageonIslamicteachings.
Inasideroom,atalonglibrarytable,fourtranslatorsfromSudanwerescanningthedailyArabicpressforusablestories.
Oneofthemworeawhiteturbanandanotherhadtribalscarsonhischeeks.
AYemeniandacoupleofBangladeshiteaboysinbrownuniformspatrolledthefloor.
Beyondthemainnewsroom,behindalongwallofglass,thelocalreporterswerewaitingtomeetme.
IsensedthelethargyassoonasIenteredtheroom.
Cigarettesmokecombinedwithafluorescentpalltocreateadense,subterraneanatmosphere.
ThreeyoungSaudireportersgreetedmewithexpressionsthatappearedwelcomingbutpuzzled.
Iwasalsosupposedtobetrainingfemalereporters,butIhadn'tseenawomansinceIenteredthebuilding.
Wesatdown,andIaskedthemtotellmeaboutthemselves.
ThereweretworeportersnamedHasan-HasanBaswaidandHasanHatrash-buttheywerestrikinglydifferent.
Baswaid,thirty-four,wastallandbroad-shouldered,withsideburnsandcurlyblackhair,andomnipresentearphonesforhismobilephone,whichrangeveryfewminutes,playingthethemefrom"Mission:Impossible.
"Heworejeansandapartlybuttoned,untuckedwhiteshirt.
Hishandsomefacebelongedonthecoverofaromancenovel.
Hatrash,twenty-eight,wasslightandshort;heworetraditionalSaudiclothes,atrimblackgoatee,andblackglassesthattendedtobeathalf-mastonhisnose.
Underhisheadscarf,however,therewasasnakymassofdreadlocks.
Atheart,Hatrashsaid,hewasamusician,butthatwasahopelesscareerchoiceinsuchapuritanicalsociety.
BothmenhadbeenworkingattheGazetteforseveralyears;thethirdreporter,Mamdouhal-Harthy,hadjoinedthestaffonlyaboutanhourbeforeIarrived.
"Howdoyoulikeworkinghere"Iaskedthem.
ThetwoHasansshruggedandlookedaway.
"Maybewecantalkaboutthislater,mon,"Hatrashsaid.
ItwasseveralweeksbeforeIlearnedwhyhehadaWestIndianaccent:hehadhonedhisEnglishbylisteningtoBobfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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htm(2of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageMarleysongs.
Theserendipitousassignmentoftrainingyoungreporters,Imayaswellconfess,thrilledme.
IsuspectedthatbehindtheclosedgatesofSaudisocietytherewasasocialrevolutioninthemaking.
Withsomeguidance,Ithought,thesejournalistscouldhelpinspirechange.
Confrontedwiththedemoralizedreportersinmycharge,however,Ididn'tknowwheretobegin.
Mydutieswerevague.
Iwasto"mentor"thereportersbyhangingaroundtheofficeforpartofeachday,andteachingthemsomeelementarytechniquesofinvestigativejournalism.
"Don'texpecttoomuch,"Shoukanyhadwarnedme.
"Youcanassignthemstories,dowhateveryouwant.
Youhavecompletefreedom.
"Iwonderedwhathemeantbythat.
Myfirstbigtaskwastohelpthelocalreporterscoverthe2003hajj,whichbeganinFebruary.
Eachyear,attheendoftheIslamiccalendar,morethantwomillionpilgrimsarriveinJeddahontheirwaytoMecca,fortymilestotheeast.
Itisthelargestannualhumangatheringintheworld.
Itisalsothebiggesteventforthelocalpresstocover,andcompetitionforstoriesisfierce.
TheGazettewassendingfourreporters-mostofthemalestaff-tocoverit;HasanHatrashwouldleadtheteam.
Inthepast,thehajjhasbeenthesceneofnumeroustragedies:stampedes,fires,aircrashes,bombings,bloodyriots,andepidemics.
Thepilgrims,comingfromallovertheworld,invariablybringwiththemassortedvirusesandbacteria,andbythetimethishajjstarted,onFebruary9th,therehadalreadybeenoutbreaksofinfluenzaandmeningitisinthekingdom.
Hatrashwasn'tworried,though.
Hetoldmethatheinsuredhisimmunitybyeatingsmallgreennativelemons.
"Theyprotectmeagainsteverything,"hesaid.
TheexpectationofwarinIraqmadethishajjespeciallytense.
Ifthewarbeganbeforethepilgrimsgothome,theycouldbestrandedformonths.
TheSaudigovernment'sambiguousattitudetowardtheIraqcrisis-officiallycondemningit,butallowingAmericanforcestouseSaudibasesasastagingareaforsearch-and-rescuemissions-leftthekingdomopentopoliticaldemonstrationsbyMuslimswhoopposedthewar.
Thegovernment,rememberingdisastersofthepast,wasdeterminedtosquelchanysuchdissent.
OneofthemostsignificantmomentsinmodernSaudihistorycameattheendofthe1979hajj.
SeveralhundredIslamistradicals,manyofthemstudents,tookovertheGrandMosqueinMecca,usingtheholiestspotinIslamasaforumforchallengingtheauthorityoftheroyalfamily.
KingKhalidobtainedafatwafromtheclergythatallowedgovernmenttroopstoretakethemosque.
Twoweeksofsavage,hand-to-handcombatintheundergroundchambersoftheholysiteleftahundredandtwenty-sevenSaudisoldiersdeadandmorethanfourhundredandfiftyinjured.
FrenchcommandosprovidedtheSaudiswithanunspecified"non-lethal"gas.
Whenthatfailedtoflushouttheterrorists,accordingtotheheadofSaudiintelligenceatthetime,Saudiforcesdroppedhandgrenadesthroughholesdrilledintothechambers.
Amazingly,ahundredandseventyrebelssurvived;sixty-threeofthemwerebeheaded,inthelargestmassexecutioninSaudihistory.
Thisyear,asmanyashalfthepilgrimswouldbewomen-thehighestpercentageever-but,curiously,theGazettewasnotsendinganyfemalereporterstocovertheevent.
AccordingtoShoukany,Iwassupposedtohavethreewomenundermysupervision,butafteraweekatthepaperIstillhadnotmetthem.
Bythen,Ihadspottedasignonthefirstfloormarked"LadiesSection,"butIhadnoideawho,ifanyone,wasbehindthedoor.
Shoukanyassuredmethatfemalereporterswerepermittedtoattendmeetingsintheconferenceroom,buttheymissedthefirstsessionIcalled,atfouro'clockonaWednesdayafternoon.
"Ilearnedtheygohomeearly,"Shoukanysaidapologetically.
Thefollowingday,withthemeetingsetforanhourearlier,threeblack-shroudedfiguresslippedintotheGazetteconferenceroom.
Oncetheywereseated,themalereportersfollowed,arrayingthemselvesontheoppositesideofthetable.
Isatawkwardlyatthehead.
Thewomenwereallinblackabayasandhijabs-theobligatoryrobesandheadscarves-andoneofthemveiledherfaceaswell.
Onlyapairofgold-rimmedglassespeekedoutfromthemaskofclothsurroundinghereyes.
Hangingfromherchairwasanalligatorpursewithalonggoldchain.
Theself-effacementofanentiresex,and,inconsequence,ofsexualityitself,wasthemostunnervingfeatureofSaudilife.
Icouldgothroughanentiredaywithoutseeinganywomen,exceptperhapssomebeggarssittingonfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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htm(3of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagethecurboutsideaprince'shouse.
Almostallpublicspace,fromtheoutdoorterraceattheItalianrestauranttothesidewalktablesatStarbucks,belongedtomen.
Therestaurantshadseparateentrancesfor"families"and"bachelors,"andIcouldhearwomenscurryingpast,hiddenbyscreens,astheywentupstairsortoarearroom.
TheonlyplacesIwassuretoseewomenwereatthemallandthegrocerystore,andeventheretheyseemedspookilyoutofplace.
Manyofthemworeblackgloves,andtheirfaceswerecoveredentirely-notevenapairofplummy,heavy-liddedArabianeyesapparent.
SometimesIcouldn'ttellwhatdirectiontheywerefacing.
Itfelttomeasifthewomenhaddied,andonlytheirshadesremained.
ThereporterwiththealligatorpursewasnamedNajlaFathi.
ItwasasurprisetolearnthatNajlaandherfemalecolleagueswerefarbettereducatedthanthemenonthestaff,mostofwhomhadnotfinishedcollege.
Najla,forinstance,hadobtainedamaster'sdegreeinpoliticalsciencefromtheUniversityofLouisville,in1995.
"AndIhaven'tbeenoutsidetheArabworldsince!
"shesaid.
Hertonesuggestedangerordefiance,orevenanattemptathumor,butitwasmaddeninglydifficulttoreadherintentionswithoutaccesstoherfacialexpressions.
IwantedtogettheGazettereporterslikeNajlastartedoninvestigativestorieswhileHatrashandhisteamwerecoveringthehajj.
TherewasonepieceIwasparticularlykeenon.
InMarch,2002,afirehadbrokenoutintheThirty-firstGirls'MiddleSchool,inMecca,adilapidatedfour-storybuildingthatheldeighthundredandthirty-fivestudentsandfifty-fiveteachers.
Accordingtoinitialreports,thefirehadbeguninthekitchenatabouteightinthemorning,creatingpanic.
Theonlyexitwaslocked;anelderlyguardhadwanderedawaywiththekey.
Fifteengirlsweretrampledtodeath;morethanfiftyotherswereinjured,somehavingjumpedfromthewindows.
Accordingtoeyewitnesses,anumberofpeoplehadrushedtoputouttheblaze,buttheywereturnedawaybyarepresentativeoftheCommissionforthePromotionofVirtueandthePreventionofVice-thecountry'sreligiouspolice-becausethegirlswerenotwearingtheirabayas.
(Thedirectorofthecommissiondeniedtheseaccounts.
)Femaleeducation,whichwasintroducedin1960,wasbornincontroversy.
Althoughfemalesnowoutnumbermalesattheuniversitylevel,onlysixpercentofwomenintheover-allpopulationareemployed,astatisticthathasledreligiousconservativestoarguethateducationis"wastedongirls.
"Afterthefire,theheadofthePresidencyofGirls'Educationannouncedthatithadbeen"God'swill.
"Hesaidthisatapressconferenceatwhichheawardedeachreporteranexpensivelambskinbriefcase.
Iwastoldthathewaslaterphotographedsurveyingtheruinsoftheschoolinhisministerialrobes;thepicturescapturedhimsteppingabsent-mindedlyontheabayasthathadbeenleftbehind.
Butitwasthedetailaboutthereligiouspoliceblockingtherescueofthegirlsthatsentthecountryintoaparoxysmofintrospection.
Eversincethe1979attackontheGrandMosque,themuttawa'a,asthesegovernment-subsidizedvigilantesareinformallycalled,havebecomeafarmoreinvasivepresenceinthecountry.
Thelessontheroyalfamilyhaddrawnfromthatattackwasthatitcouldprotectitselffromreligiousextremistsonlybyempoweringthem.
Themuttawa'aprowlrestaurantsandshoppingmallsandamusementparks,makingsurethatbusinesseshaveclosedforprayertimeandchastisingwomenwhoseattirefailstomeettheirstandardsofmodesty.
Theyhavebeenknowntoshootupsatellitedishesandbreakintoprivatehomes.
Themuttawa'aareusuallytrailedbyofficialpolicemen,whoareattheircommand.
TheSaudipressmadehistorybywritingaboutthefirewithoutfirstaskingtheMinistryofInformationforpermission.
Forseveralweeks,thegovernmentstoodasideandsimplyletthepressbefree.
"Whenwillweeverbeashamedofourattitudetowardswomen"theeditorofAlRiyadhaskedhisreaders.
"Weascribeallofsociety'sillstothem.
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DoestheCommitteeforthePromotionofVirtueandthePreventionofVicecareaboutourwives,sisters,mothersanddaughtersmorethanwedo"TheGazette,whichrarelycriticizedthegovernment,demandedaninvestigationofthereligiouspoliceandprosecutionofthoseresponsibleforthedeathsofthegirls.
BySaudistandards,thecoveragewassorelentlessthatevenreformistsweretroubled.
Eventually,theInteriorMinistersummonedtheeditors-in-chiefofallthenewspapersinthecountryandtoldthemthatthestoriesmuststop.
Theyimmediatelydid.
ForSaudijournalists,thedramaoverthegirls'schoolwasbothliberatinganddisconcerting.
ItconfirmedthattheSaudipresscouldplayadissentingrole.
Butsomesaidthat,ultimately,thestoryhadprovedtobeasetback;thefile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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htm(4of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagegovernmentsharplyreducedthezoneoffreedombecauseithadbeensoalarmedbythepopularfurythestoryhadunleashed.
NeartheendoftheThursdaymeeting,Isuggestedassigningaone-year-anniversarystoryabouttheevent.
Iwantedawomanreportertowriteit.
"Thequestionis,afterayear,havethingsreallychanged"Iasked.
"Ofcoursetheyhave,"Najlasaidimpatiently,leaningonthetablewithwhatmusthavebeenherchinrestingonherfist.
"Everybodyknowsthis.
TheheadofthePresidencyofGirls'Educationwasfired.
TheymergedthatdepartmentintotheMinistryofEducation.
Thesearehugechanges.
""Tome,theyseemlikesymbolicchanges,"Isaid.
"Thegirlsdiedbecausetheywerelockedinsidearamshackle,overcrowdedbuildingwithnofireescapes.
IsthegovernmentactuallybuildingsafeschoolsforgirlsAretheteachersconductingfiredrillsAregirlsstilllockedinside"Oneofthewomen,SabahatSiddiqi,shylyspokeup.
"Iwilldothisstory,ifyouwilltellmehow,"shesaid.
IsuggestedthatSabahattalktocivil-defenseauthoritiestoseeiftheyhaveimprovedfiresafety,andtotheMinisterofEducationtodetermineifthegovernmenthadfollowedthroughonitspledgetobuildsafeschools.
IadvisedhertogotoMeccaandtalktothefamiliesofthegirlswhodied.
Sheshouldvisitgirls'schoolsinJeddah,andtalktowomeneducatorstoseewhethertheyweresatisfiedwiththegovernment'sresponse.
Sabahatnoddedandearnestlytooknotes,butNajlalaughed.
"That'snotthewaythingsworkhere,"shewarnedme.
WhileHatrashandhishajjteamwereinMecca,ItooktimetodrivearoundJeddah.
IrentedaHyundai,withfifty-seventhousandkilometresonit,thathadalreadybeendentedoneverypanel,includingtheroof.
Thetrafficwasfrightening.
"Wehavethehighestnumberofaccidentsintheworld,andwedon'tevenhavealcohol!
"Hatrashhadtoldme.
HeattributedtheaccidentratetothehighlevelofstressinSaudisociety,whichalsocontributestoextraordinaryratesofdiabetesandhighbloodpressureinthekingdom.
Everytimeasignalturnedgreen,driversinthefar-rightlaneturnedleftacrosssixlanes,driversintheleft-handlanewentstraight,thenweallspedlikedragsterstothenextlight.
Jeddahisanancientcitythatdisplaysalmostnoevidenceofthepast.
IntheOldQuarter,housesmadeofcoralbrickwithlatticedbalconiesarecrumblingfromneglect.
Buildingsthatfelldecadesagoarestillrubble.
Outsidethissmallhistoricaldistrict,oneenterswhatcouldbeaseedysuburbofHouston,withfamiliarAmericanfranchisesliningpotholedboulevards.
DespitethewealthofthebinLadenclan,OsamabinLadengrewuphere,inaworking-classneighborhoodcalledAlAmariyya,wherelaundrydriesonthebalconiesandshopkeeperschatonthestoops.
Later,hemovedwithhismotherandhisstepfathertoanewneighborhood;theylivedinamodestwhitevillaonJabalal-ArabStreet,withafiligreeirongateandasmallcourtyard.
In1984,whenOsamatookasecondwife,heboughtarun-downapartmenthouseoffMacaroniStreet-sonamedbecauseofanoldpastafactorynearby.
Atnight,teen-agerscruisePalestineStreet,oneofJeddah'smainthoroughfares,whichbeginsinthedeserthillsontheeastsideoftownandendsattheRedSea.
Onthebeach,familiespicnicandgoforcamelridesandsportaboutinfancifulneon-litdonkeycarts.
Betweenthebeachandaspitoflandthatholdsthesummerroyalpalace,amajesticfountainspoutseighthundredandfifty-threefeetintotheair,makingitthetallestintheworld.
(Jeddahalsoboaststheworld'slargestChuckE.
Cheesepizzaparlor.
)EverythingofvaluethatSaudiArabiaproduces-i.
e.
,oil-comesoutoftheEasternProvince,ontheothersideofthecountry,wheresupertankersplythePersianGulfontheirwaytorefuellingtheindustrialworld.
TheJeddahIslamicSeaport,ontheotherhand,isdevotedalmostentirelytoimports-food,clothing,appliances,furniture,andelectronics,whichfillthestoresinthishighlyconsumingbutnotoriouslyunproductivesociety.
ThekingdomofSaudiArabiawasfoundedinitsmodernincarnationin1932,byAbdulAzizibnAbdulRahmanAl-Saud.
Thefirstoilboomhitintheearlyfifties,andsoondesertnomadsweredockingtheiryachtsinMonacoandrentingentirefloorsoftheRitz.
By1981,per-capitaincomewasmorethantwenty-eightthousanddollars,aboutequaltothatoftheUnitedStatesatthetime.
SaudiArabiaseemedtobeonthewaytobecomingtherichestnationinhistory,thegloballandlord.
Oilpriceshavefluctuatedsincethen,buttoday,withoilagainatmorethanfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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htm(5of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagethirtydollarsabarrel,theSaudiper-capitaincomeislessthanseventhousanddollars,aroundthatofMexico.
(Statisticsinthekingdomarerarelymorethanguesses.
AnemployeeattheJeddahChamberofCommerceandIndustrycheerfullytoldme,"Atthechamber,wecookourownfigures.
")Theoilwealthofthecountryrunsfirstthroughroyalpockets.
VariousbusinessmenandeconomistsspeculatethatasmuchasthirtyorfortypercentisskimmedbytheAlSaudfamily.
"Webuildforty-million-dollarpalacesforevenminorprinces,"anarchitecttoldme.
Thoseclosesttothecrownarestaggeringlywealthy.
"AbdulAzizbinFahd,asonofKingFahd,isinhisearlythirties,andhiswealthalonecouldsolvetheentireunemploymentproblemofSaudiArabia,"MohsenAl-Awajy,alawyerandaspokesmanforWahhabidissidents,toldme.
"Therearebillionsuponbillionsinhisaccount.
Nobodycanchallengehim.
Nobodycanasktheroyalfamily,'Why'"Still,withSaudiArabiacontainingone-fourthoftheworld'sknownoilreserves,thegovernmenthasnoneedtotaxitscitizens.
Educationandhealthcarearefree.
Butthereislittleevidenceofpublicwealthorcharity.
AsIexploredthekingdom,Inoticedfewparksorplaygroundsormuseums.
Therearenotenoughuniversitiesorprivateschoolstoservethepopulation;practicallynoresearchinstitutions;fewpublicartsgroups;andnohuman-rightsorganization.
Philanthropyfailstomakeupforthegovernment'sneglect;foronething,theabsenceoftaxesmeansthattherearenocharitabledeductionsandthereforenofinancialincentivesforgiving.
Thefactthattherearenosecularcharitiesornon-governmentalinstitutionsor,ofcourse,politicalparties-civilsociety,inotherwords-meansthatthereisnomoderate,stabilizingmiddlegroundbetweenthegovernmentandtheclerics.
Thissituationhas,naturally,elevatedthepowerofreligiousconservatives.
Althoughmanyofitsowncitizensstruggletomakedo,theSaudigovernmentsendsabouttwobilliondollarsayearinaidtootherIslamiccountries,buildingmosquesandmadrassas,underwritingreligiousuniversities,distributingbooksandtracts,fundingcharities-andsupportingjihad.
Thesedonations,approvedbythesmallinnercircleofelderlyprinceswhorunthegovernment,aremadewithaneyetowardplacatingthecountry'sreligiousextremists;theyalsoinsurethattheWahhabistrainofSunniIslam,theofficialdogmaofthekingdom,willbetheMuslimvoiceheardaboveallothers.
Lifeinthekingdomchangedafterthe1979attackontheGrandMosque.
Wahhabiclerics,withtheirfearofoutsideinfluences,wagedwaronartandthepleasuresoftheintellect.
Musicwasthefirstvictim.
UmmKulthumandFairouz,thesongbirdsoftheArabworld,disappearedfromtheSauditelevisionstations.
AmagnificentconcerthallinRiyadhwascompletedin1989,butnoperformancehaseverbeenheldthere.
TheIslamiccourtshaveevenbannedthemusicplayedwhenatelephonecallisplacedonhold.
Therehadbeensomemovietheatres,buttheywereallshutdown.
Sincethemosqueattack,religionhasbecomeasteadilyincreasingpartoftheSaudischoolcurriculum,sostudentshavelessexposuretoscience,art,andlanguages.
"Mykidisinthefifthgrade,"OmarBagour,acolumnistforAlMadinaandaprofessorofeconomicsatKingAbdulAzizUniversity,toldme.
"Outoftwelvesubjects,sevenarepurereligion.
YoutellmeasystemofthisnatureisgoingtobringintothelaborforceahighlyqualifiedSaudiBullshit.
"Thereligiousestablishment,however,wantseducationtobecomeevenmoreIslamic.
"Educationalsystemsofatheistnationsandcivilizationscannotbelikethesystemsofabelievingnation,"SaalihIbnHumayd,aSaudicleric,warnedinarecentspeech.
"ThiscountryrepresentsthepowerofIslam.
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.
.
Anyattempttochangethisstatuswillbevehementlyopposed.
"ThereligiousestablishmentmakessurethatmillionsofIslamicbooksaretranslatedintootherlanguageseachyear,butveryfewbooksaretranslatedintoArabic.
"Censorshipofbooksismorerigidnowthanfortyyearsback,"MuhammadSalahuddin,acolumnistforAlMadina,toldmeonenightatdinner.
"Backthen,Icouldbuyacopyof'DasKapital'inMecca.
Nowyoucannotdreamoffindingsuchbooks.
"AlthoughthereareseveralpopularSaudipaintersinthekingdom,theWahhabibanontherepresentationofhumanbeingsoranimalsmakesforgeometricabstractionsandunpeopledlandscapes,astudiedavoidanceofthereal.
TherewasevenaculturalwarovertheStarbuckslogo-amermaid,which,strictlyspeaking,isneitherhumannoranimalbutmythological.
Thereligiouspolicecomplainedabouttheemblemwhenthecompanyopeneditsfirststore,inRiyadh,in2000;underpressure,Starbuckschangeditslogo.
Governmentauthoritiesfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
.
.
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htm(6of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageeventuallyoverruledthecomplaint,andbythetimeIgottoJeddahthemermaidwasbackonthecompany'ssigns.
OneeveninginRiyadh,IwenttotheNationalMuseumaftereveningprayers.
Itisaspectacularbuilding,madeofArabianlimestoneanddesigned,bytheCanadianfirmMoriyama&Teshima,toresemblethegentlybendingwallofadesertwadi.
Iwalkedthroughthevastexhibitionhallsalone,exceptforaSaudicoupleandtheiryoungdaughter.
Icouldheartheirfootstepsechoingjustbehindme,andtheirvoices,hushedintheemptiness.
ThedisplaycasestoldthehistoryoftheArabianPeninsula,fromthedinosaursandtheearlypetroglyphstothetriumphantarrivalofIslam.
Eerilyabsentfromtheexhibitarerepresentationsofthepeoplewholivedthere.
Isupposethatwaswhytherewerepracticallynoothervisitorsinthemuseum;itwasastorywithnocharacters.
Inoneofthegrandhalls,Inoticedanoddcul-de-sac,underastairwell,whereIfoundapaintingofahumanface-theonlyoneinthemuseum.
ItwasawalldrawingfromthevillageofAlFao,fromthesecondorthirdcenturyA.
D.
,depictingamanwithagarlandaroundhiscurlyhair.
ItlookedlikeaRomanChristianicon;atthattime,JewsandChristiansweremakinginroadsamongthepolytheistsofthepeninsula.
Themanhadwide,roundeyes,likethefiguresinthefrescoesofPompeii.
Isupposeitwasatributetotheimportanceofthisminiatureportraitthatitwasdisplayedatall;still,tobehiddenunderthestairs,almostasifitwerepornography,mademeadmireasneverbeforethepowerofthehumanform.
OnedayinJeddah,IwentacrosstowntoseeJamalKhashoggi,whowasthenthedeputyeditoroftheArabNews,themainEnglish-languagecompetitoroftheSaudiGazette.
Wemetinhisoffice.
Heisatallmanwithatrimbeardandapale,moon-shapedface.
HehadcoveredtheAfghanjihadsympathetically,andhadbeenafriendofbinLaden's;buthehadrejectedtheIslamistmovementwhenitturnedtowardterror.
AfterSeptember11th,hewaspracticallytheonlySaudijournalistwhoaddressedtheculturalfailureswithinSaudisocietywhichcontributedtothattragedy.
"Despitetheenormityofwhathappened,wearestillindenial,"hewroteayearaftertheevent.
"Westillclingtounlikelyconspiracytheoriesandeyethetruthwithsuspicion.
Themostpressingissuenowistoensurethatourchildrencanneverbeinfluencedbyextremistideas-likethosefifteenSaudiswhoweremisledintohijackingfourplanesonthatfineSeptemberday,pilotingthem,andus,straightintothejawsofhell.
"Afterteahadbeenserved,KhashoggiandIbegantalkingabouttheterm"schizophrenic,"whichmanySaudisusetocharacterizethequalityoftheirlives.
Khashoggisaiditreferredtothesplitbetweenwhathecalled"virtual"SaudiArabiaand"real"SaudiArabia.
"ThevirtualSaudiArabiaactuallyexistsinitsrulesandinthemindsofthepeople,"hetoldme.
"Forinstance,invirtualSaudiArabiathereisnosatellitetelevision.
Inprinciple,andbylaw,youarenotallowedtoownasatellitedish.
ButinrealitywearethebiggestconsumersofsatellitetelevisionintheMiddleEast.
Notonlythat,Saudibusinessmenarealsothebiggestinvestorsinsatellites.
Inprinciple,andbylaw,SaudiArabiaisnotsupposedtohaveinterest-basedbanking,butinfactninetypercentofourbankingsystemisinterest-based.
Anditgoesonandon.
ThesolutionforSaudiproblemsistobringthevirtualworldandtherealworldtogether.
"IaskedKhashoggiwhatrolethepresscouldplayinthecountry'seffortstochange.
"Idon'tthinkthepresscanplayarole,"hetoldme.
"Idon'tseeasinglepapercallingforreform.
Thepapersarenotstructuredinawaytomakethatpossible.
"(Everyeditor-in-chiefisultimatelyapprovedbytheMinisterofInterior,whoisalsoinchargeofthecountry'ssecretpolice.
)Khashoggipointedtoabroadpetitionforreformthathadbeenputforward,inFebruary,byahundredandfourSaudiintellectuals.
CrownPrinceAbdullah,thede-factorulerofthecountry,hadreceivedthesignerswarmly,butnotasinglenewspaperhadpublishedtheirlistofdemands.
Thelimitsofpressfreedomwerealwayschanging,Khashoggiexplained.
"Wearepushingtheboundariesbutatthesametimebeingcautious,"hesaid.
"Nowit'sacceptedthatwecangetonthetoesofthemayorbutnotthoseofthegovernor.
"Later,ImetwithHusseinShobokshi,acolumnistforOkazandawealthybuildingcontractor,whoembodiestheprogressive,oftenAmerican-educatedbusinesscommunity.
(HegraduatedfromtheUniversityofTulsa.
)ShobokshiwasamemberoftheboardoftrusteesoftheprivatefemalecollegeinJeddah.
Heisagood-lookingman,withlarge,sleepyeyesandawrysenseofhumor.
HisfatherwasheadofOkazandthefounderoftheSaudiGazette,andHusseinisamajorstockholder.
Hetoldmethattherehadbeensomeprogressinpressfreedominthepastdecade:"Nowwedon'tgetlockedupbecauseofwhatwesay;wegetlockedupbecauseofwhatwedo.
"file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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a%20rare%20look%20inside%20a%20closed%20society.
htm(7of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageThegirls'-schoolstory,Shobokshisaid,was"averyimportantdialoguebetweenthegovernmentandthepress.
Butthereisnonewcausecelebre.
""Ifyouweretryingtopointyoungreporterstoonestorythatcouldshakethecountry,whatwoulditbe"Iaskedhim.
"Sewage,"hesaidemphatically.
Twentyyearsago,Shobokshitoldme,Jeddahhadbeenprovidedwiththemoneytobuildamodernsewagesystemthatwouldaccommodatethefast-growingcity.
Thegovernmentofficialinchargeoftheproject,however,tookthemoneyandbuilthimselfamansioninSanFranciscoandapalaceinJeddahthatisequippedwithadiscothequeandabowlingalley.
Asaresult,Shobokshisaid,thestreetsinJeddahareconstantlyfilledwithtankertruckstodrainthecity'scesspools.
Worse,sewagehasgotmixedintoJeddah'sgroundwater,andthishascontaminateddrinkingwaterinmanypartsofthecity.
"Wehavenewdiseasesoftheeyeandskinthatdidn'texistheretenyearsago,"Shobokshisaid.
"Lungandbreastcancersarefortypercentabovethenationalrate.
Hepatitisissohighthatithastobeclassifiedasanepidemic.
Marinebiologiststellmethatcertainfisheshavebecomeextinctbecauseoftheoverflow.
Swimmingwillbehistory.
"ShobokshisaidthathehadtravelledtoDelftUniversityofTechnology,inHolland,foradvice.
"Igavethemallthefigures.
Theytoldme,'Hussein,you'vegotatimebomb.
'Thesewagerightnowisdumpedinahugelakeabovethecity.
Thewallsofthislakearemadeofsand.
AndJeddahisonageologicalfault!
Theysaidthatifthere'sanearthquakeoffiveontheRichterscaleitwilltakesixhoursfortheentirecityofJeddahtobefloodedwithsewagewateroneandahalfmetresdeep.
""Whathappenedtotheguywhostolethemoney""Thegovernmentinvestigatedanditwasruledthatheshouldpayapenaltyandgotojail,"Shobokshisaid.
"ButthenhewaspardonedbecausehisbrotheristheprivatesecretarytotheKing.
"Shobokshiconfidedthathewasinitiatingwhathecalled"thefirst-everclass-actionlawsuitinthekingdom.
"Hewasgatheringfivethousandsignaturesandhadhiredtenyounglawyerstopreparethecase.
Nobodyhadyetwrittenaboutthesuitinthepress,andheagreedthatiftheSaudiGazettepublishedaseriesofstoriesaboutthesewagecrisishe'dgivethepaperascoopaboutthelawsuit.
Hehadmehooked,andheknewit.
"Thisishistorywithacapital'H,'"hesaid.
Afewdayslater,IwashandedthedraftofanarticlebyMamdouhal-Harthy,thenewreporter.
HewasfromaprominentBedouintribe,butinsteadofathobeheusuallydressedinupscalecasualWesternclothes-jeans,oversizedT-shirt,andsunglasses-withthenameofthedesignerprominentlydisplayedoneveryitem.
"Chicksnoticesuchthings,"headvisedme.
Whenwewenttothemalltogether,hestoppedinhistrackslikeabirddogandwatchedapairofgirls,entirelyswathedinblack,descendinganescalator.
"Check'emout!
"hesaid,withoutirony.
Mamdouhwasachildofthesouk.
Hisfatherownedanelegantshopdowntownthatsolddatesandcandies.
Hehadamerchant'sfacilitywithlanguages,speakingUrduandTurkish,andhisEnglishwassocolloquialthatIneverthoughttoworryabouthiswritingability.
Hehadbeenworkingonastoryaboutthehajjtravelindustry.
Hisfirstdraftbegan,"HundredsofairplanesflayinghajjistoSaudiArabiatoperformedhajj.
mostofthoseplanesgobackwithnosinglepassengersuchastheTurkishairlines.
otherairlinesclaimedtheyrfulloccupied.
"Ireadthroughthebriefpiece,wonderingwhathecouldpossiblymeanby"theincomeisverypenfetal.
""Whatdoyouthink,chief"Mamdouhasked.
"IwantyoutowritethisformeinArabic,"Isaid.
"Noproblemo,"hesaid,buthesoundedalittlepuzzled.
file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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htm(8of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageWhenhefinished,ItookhisArabicdrafttooneoftheSudanesetranslators.
"It'sexcellentArabic,"hetoldme.
IwentbacktoMamdouh.
"Howfardidyougoinschool"Iasked.
"I'vegotaB.
A.
inEnglishliterature.
"Thatstoppedme.
"O.
K.
,nowyou'reinchargeofyourowneducation,"Itoldhim.
"Stopwatchinggirls.
ReadabookinEnglish.
WatchBBC.
RentAmericanmovies.
Whateveryoudo,doitinEnglish.
Inthemeantime,writeyourarticlesinArabicfirst,thentranslatethem.
""O.
K.
,chief,"hesaid,buthesoundeddiscouraged.
AllthereportershadproblemswritingEnglish-thatwaswhattheIndianeditorsweretherefor.
Theeditorscouldsometimessalvagepiecesthatwereinscrutabletome.
ButIwonderedwhythepaperrefusedtohireanexperiencedbilingualreporter.
Everyotherweek,itseemed,anewreportercameonboard,oftensomeonejustoutofhighschool.
Theyweren'treallyexpectedtoproduce.
Somereporterswentweekswithoutwritingasinglestory,andwhentheydiditmightbeaboutaneventthathadtakenplacetendaysbefore.
Manymornings,thepaperdidn'tcarryanylocalnewsatall.
Ibegantowonderifitwasanaccidentthatthelocalreporterswereill-equippedtohandlethejob.
Iwasheartened,therefore,toreadsomeengagingstoriesfromtheGazetteteaminMecca.
"ThetentcityofMina,ontheoutskirtsofMakkah,isallreadytowelcomethepilgrims,"theGazettereportedontheeveofthehajj.
Fivehospitalswithmorethansevenhundredbedsweresetup.
Thirtythousandbutchersstaffingfiveslaughterhouseswereonhandtodispatchhundredsofthousandsofsacrificialanimals.
AccordingtoastoryfiledbyHasanHatrash,fourthousandBoyScoutswouldhavenewsoftwareavailabletohelppilgrimslocatetheircotsamongtheforty-fourthousandair-conditionedtentsthatfilledthevalleylikeawhite-cappedsea.
"Scoutsuntilrecentlyusedtoserveinexcessoftenthousandlostpilgrimsaday,"Hatrashwrote.
Thesecondmorningofthehajj,immediatelyafterthedawnprayer,thepilgrimsproceededtoMt.
Arafat,twelvemilesoutsideMecca.
There,nearlyfourteenhundredyearsago,theProphetgavehislastsermon.
Theseconddayissupposedtobeadayofrepentanceandself-examination,buttheairwaschargedwithpolitics.
"Don'tyouseehowtheenemiesaregatheringandarepreparingtowagewaronyou"theGrandMufti,SheikhAbdulAzizbinAbdullahAalAl-Sheikh,saidinhisnoonsermon.
ManypilgrimstoldtheGazetteteamthattheyhopedIraqwouldbe"victorious"inthecomingconflict.
"AmericawantstocontroltheArabworldanditswealth.
WeareallsoldiersforIraq,"aSyrianhajjisaid.
Laterthatday,Hatrashcalledme.
Hewasfuriousbecausemanyofthestoriesthatheandhisteamwerewritingweren'tgettingintothepaper-"andNajlaFathigetsabigstoryaboutaconferencefivedaysold!
"ItwastruethatNajla'sstory,aboutaculturalsymposiuminMecca,wasalittlestale,butitwastheonlypiecewehadinthepaperreflectingtheparticipationofwomeninthehajj.
Hatrashalsohadapieceaboutthefirstbabybornduringthatyear'spilgrimage,onMt.
Arafat,butanotherstory,aboutahajjiwhohadaheartattackandwasbroughtbacktolife,didn'trun.
"Yousoundterrible,"Iobserved.
"It'stheflu,mon,"hesaid.
"Ithoughtthelemonsweresupposedtoprotectyou.
"Hatrashadmittedthathe'dneglectedtobuyany.
Iworriedthathewastooilltosupervisetheotherreporters;someofthemwerealsogettingtheflu.
"Nowwewillhavetoexpectthattheywillbringitbacktous,"Dr.
Shoukanysaidunsympathetically.
"Forthenexttwoweeks,everyonewillbesick.
"file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Docu.
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a%20rare%20look%20inside%20a%20closed%20society.
htm(9of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageTheGazettestorythenextmorningwas"faithfulstonethedevil,makesacrifices.
"Afterspendingthenightprayingunderthestars,thepilgrimshadreturnedtoMina,eachcollectingsevenpebblesalongtheway.
Thentheythrewthepebblesatthreestonepillars,calledtheJamarat,whichiswhereSatantriedtotempttheprophetMohammed.
TheStoningoftheDevil,whichlastsforthreedays,istheclimaxofthehajj;itisalsothemostdangerousperiod,aspeoplejostletothefronttothrowtheirrocks,andsometimesshoesorumbrellas,crying"AllahuAkbar!
"MazharSiddiqi,Sabahat'sfatherandthenational-affairseditorattheGazette,wasupsetbythequotesfromacoupleofpilgrimswhosaidthattheywereimaginingGeorgeBushwhentheyhurledthepebblesattheDevil.
"Whatisbehindthis"heaskedme.
"SaudiArabianeverhasbeenaplacethatwouldtalkagainstothercountries.
Ithasalwaysbeenknownforitsneutrality.
"Thesubheadofthestoningstorywas"14pilgrimskilledinstampede.
"Aroundten-thirtyonthefirstmorningofstoning,agroupofhajjisleavingtheJamaratranintoanothergroupjustarriving;therewassomeshovingthatquicklyturnedtopanic.
Fourteendeathsweresufficientlyroutinethattheydidn'tmeritaseparatearticle.
"Somethingelsewemissed,"Mazharsaidgrumpilythemorningthepilgrimageended.
"Itwasthesafesthajjinmemory.
"Thiswasdespitethreestampedes,andthirty-twopilgrimswhodiedintrafficaccidents,andfivewithoutvalidpermitswhowererunoverastheytriedtoevadeacheckpoint,andonePakistaniwhowasswallowedupbythesandwhiletakinganap.
Altogethermorethanfourhundreddeathswerereported,mostowingtonaturalcauses.
Hundredsmorepilgrimssufferedfromheatstrokeorfoodpoisoning,butfortunatelytherewerenoepidemics.
Ofcourse,whentheGazetteteamcamebacktoJeddah,everyoneintheofficegotsick.
IkeptpressingSabahatSiddiqitoproduceadraftabouttheaftermathofthegirls'-schooltragedy.
Sabahat,whoisPakistani,readsArabicpoorly,andsoNajlaagreedtostudythenewsclipsandassemblesomenotesforher.
NajlabeganbyreadingboundvolumesofOkazinourlibrary.
ThenshecalledAlMadina,whichwasonlyafewblocksaway.
Shewastoldthatshecouldrequestpagesforfiftyriyalseach(aboutfourteendollars),butasawomanshecouldnotentertheinformationcenter,norwouldlibraryclerksbringtheclippingstoherintheladies'section.
"Thepubliclibraryshouldhavealltheclippingsonmicrofilm,"Isuggested.
"Womenaren'tallowedinthepubliclibrary,exceptonedayaweek,"Najlainformedme.
Andsincetherewasalimitonhowmuchshewouldbeallowedtocopy-nomorethanafewpagesatatime-itwouldtakeherweekstogatherallthematerial.
ItoldherIwouldcalltheeditorofAlMadinaandaskhimtohelpher.
Also,Iwassuretherewasalibraryatthewomen'scollegewhichshecoulduse.
Theimportantthingwastogetthefactsaboutwhatoccurredwhenthefirestarted,andwhatthegovernmenthadpromisedtodoafterward.
"There'sanotherproblem,"shesaid.
"Therearesomepeoplewhodon'tlikeknowingaboutdepressingthings,andoneofthosepeopleisme.
"Shepaused.
"Whatmakesmeupsetisthat,inmyreading,Iseethatmaybesomepeoplearecoveringup.
"Shewouldn'ttellmewhatshehadlearned.
Afterafewweeks,Iaskedherwhyshehadn'tgonetoMeccatointerviewthefamiliesorvisitedlocalschoolstoseeiffirecodeshadbeenenacted.
"Thingsaregettingbetter,"sheinsisted.
Sherefusedtodiganydeeper.
Herreluctancepuzzledme.
Perhapsshewasafraidoftheauthorities;oneoftheeditorshadtoldmethatthewomenbelievedIwasforcingthemtodostoriesthatwerecriticalofthegovernment.
ButNajlawasoneofourmostambitiousreporters.
Perhapsshefeltprotectiveofhersocietyanddidn'twanttoexposeitsshortcomings,althoughshehadnothesitatedtoexpresscriticisminconversation.
Inanycase,hercautionwassodeeplyembeddedthatIcouldnotbreakthrough.
Withoutheraid,Sabahatcouldnotcontinue,andthestorydied.
Thefirstanniversaryoftheschoolfirecameandwent,largelyunremarkedintheSaudipress.
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htm(10of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageInfrustration,Imadesomeinquiriesonmyown.
WhenIfirstheardofthetragedy,Ihadimaginedthatthegirlsweretrampledastheyfellinastairwellorhadbeencrushedagainstthedoor.
ThenIspoketoDr.
KhaledAbouElFadl,alawprofessoratU.
C.
L.
A.
andamemberoftheboardofHumanRightsWatch.
HetoldmethathehadreceivedacallfromabusinessmaninMeccawhoclaimedtobethefatherofoneofthedeadgirls.
"Hewasatwork,aten-minutedrivefromtheschool,"AbouElFadltoldme.
"Hegotacallandrushedover,andthereheencounteredpoliceandfiremen.
Hepushedhiswaythrough,andthenhenoticedthemuttawa'a.
"Afewminuteslater,thefathersaid,hisdaughterrantothegatewithagroupofgirls.
Thegirlspleadedforsomeonetoletthemout.
"Shewasscreaming,'Breakthelock!
Breakthelock!
'"AbouElFadlcontinued.
"Thesmokewasoverwhelming,itwasveryhot.
Oneofthegirlswasscreamingthatherclotheswerestickingtoherskin.
"Seventeenfireengineshadrespondedtothealarm,alongwithmembersofthecivildefense.
Betweenthemandthedesperatestudentsstoodthemuttawa'a.
NoneoftherepresentativesofSaudisocietystandingoutsidethegateofthegirls'school-thepolice,thefiremen,theparents,thebystanders-wereabletosummonthecollectivewilltoignorethemuttawa'aandsavethegirls.
ThemanwhocalledAbouElFadlsaidhewasafraidofchallengingthereligiouspolice.
Theysenthisdaughterbackintotheschooltogetherabaya.
Sheburnedtodeath.
"Hesaid,'Iwantthecriminalstried.
Theymurderedmydaughter.
Helpmebringjustice,'"AbouElFadltoldme.
Butthatwasthelastheheardfromtheman.
Noonewasprosecutedforthedeaths.
ThechiefofpoliceinMeccatoldtheAssociatedPressatthetimethathehadarrivedtofindamuttawa'a-hementionsonlyone-quarrellingwithapoliceofficer.
"Iimmediatelyinstructedhimtoleave,andhedid,"hesaid.
Thegovernmentsaidthattherewouldbeafollow-upinvestigation,butnothingcameofit.
Meninwhite,womeninblack:thebasicSaudiwardrobeexpressesapolaritybetweenthesexesthatisabsolute.
Themenlookmonkishintheirgownlikethobes,madeofcottonorsilk,andtheblackbandsaroundtheirheadscarvesremindedmeofhalos.
Theyareasnearlycoveredupasthewomen(exceptthosewho,likeNajla,choosetoconcealtheirface).
Atfirst,IwasfrustratedbyhowlittleinformationIcouldgainaboutamanfromlookingathiswhiteclothes,butsoonIlearnedtoreadtheaccessories-thepen,thewatch,theshoes-eachofwhichwasfreightedwithstatus.
NearlyeverySaudimanhasfacialhair.
Along,fullbeardmarksamanaspious.
Anuntrimmedbeard,athobethatisacoupleofinchesshorterthanusual,andtheabsenceofaheadbandtoholdthescarfinplace:thisisthecostumeoffundamentalistsandthemuttawa'a.
SomeSaudimenwearsocksandshoes,butmanypreferflatsandalsmadeofostrichorcrocodileskin.
Headscarveshaveared-checkorwhite-on-whitepattern,buteventheseseeminglyidenticalgarmentsarefullofnuancetotheSaudieye,whichpicksuptheValentinoorChristianDiornamesewnintotheweave.
HeavyplatinumRolexesortagHeuerscompletetheirwardrobes.
(Islamallowsonlywomentoweargold.
)Thestrictseparationofthesexesisacomparativelyrecentphenomenon,asAbdullahal-Shehri,aprofessoroflinguisticsatKingAbdulAzizUniversity,explainedduringalongconversationinaStarbucks.
"Thereisareligiousterm,khalwah,whichmeansamanandawomanwhoareunrelatedandarebehindacloseddoor,"Abdullahsaid.
"Thereisanotherterm,ikhtilat.
Thisisaninventedterm.
It'sheardonlyinSaudiArabia,andisnevermentionedinanyreligioustext.
Itmeans'mixingofmorethantwomenandwomen.
'ThereisaconfusionbetweenthesetwotermsintheSaudimind.
TheProphetsaidwheneveramanandawomanareinkhalwahSatanwilljointhem.
ButikhtilatispartoftheSauditribalculture.
BeforeIwasborn,inthethirtiesandfortiesmenandwomenusedtocelebrateweddingstogether.
Nowbrideandgroomhaveseparateweddingcelebrations.
""Traditionssaythateatingalonewithyourfemalerelativesisshameful,"RaidQusti,ajournalist,wroteearlierthisyearinadaringcolumnfortheArabNews.
"Whereinourreligiondoesitsaythatsittingwithyourownfamilyisforbidden"QusticomplainedthatmanySaudimenthoughtitwastabootoutterawoman'snameinpublic.
"AskanySaudimaleinthestreetwhatthenamesofhiswifeordaughtersare,andyouwilleitherhaveembarrassedhimorinsultedhim.
IslamicNotinanyway.
"Therearesomepartsofthecountrywhereawomanneverunveils-herhusbandandchildrenseeherfaceonlywhenshedies.
"WomenwillalwaysbethecoreissuethatwillhinderanysocialprogressinSaudiArabia,"Qustiwrote.
"Welimittheirrolesinpublic,banthemfrompublicparticipationindecisionmaking,wedoubtthemandconfinethembecausewethinktheyarethesourceofallseductionandfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(11of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageevilintheworld.
Andthenwesayproudly:'WeareMuslims.
'"Amiddle-agedSauditoldme,"Iamworriedaboutthenextgeneration.
Theydon'tseeanyrealwomenatall.
Youdon'tseeeachother'swives,daughters,sisters.
Everythingismasculine.
Andyettheyarebombardedbyimages.
Theycaneasilyseeporn.
Theyliveintheimaginationofsexallthetime.
Wedon'tgrownaturally,tobeloved,nottobeloved-wedon'tundergothesechanges.
Two-thirdsofthemarriagesherearebasicallyloveless.
Manymencheat-there'salotgoingonunderground.
"SomeSaudimenopenlyjokeabouttheirbehaviorwhentheyleavethecountry.
"We'reallsexmaniacs,bytheway,"onesaidtome.
HeregularlyfliestoMoroccoforfemalecompanionship.
"There'sapartofmethatIsharewithallmen,wherewomenareconcerned.
Andthere'sapartIsharewithArabmen.
Butthere'sabigpartthatonlySaudiguyshaveincommon.
"Theabsenceofsocializationbetweenmenandwomenstruckmeasapotentfactorinterroristfantasies.
ThehijackerswhokilledthemselvesonSeptember11thwerepropelledinpartbythenotionofbeingrewardedintheafterlifewiththecompanyofvirgins.
Suchabstractionsdon'tseemquitesostrangeinacountrywhereimagesofwomenpipedthroughasatellitedishseemmorevividthanactualSaudiwomen-whomthemalereportersattheGazettelikedtocallB.
M.
O.
s,or"blackmovingobjects.
"Theabayaobliteratesfashionandcurtainsoffwomen'sbodies,butthegownsarevariousandfullofmeaningtothosewhocanreadthesigns.
"Somegofromthehead,somefromtheshoulder,someareopen,someareclosed,"Najlaexplainedtome.
(Wewerespeakingonthephone,asusual,sinceindividualmeetingsbetweenthetwoofuswouldhavebeenfrownedupon.
)Sabahat'sgown,shepointedout,buttonedupthefrontandhadanattractiveembroideredtrim.
Thereareothersthatlookabitlikeoperacapes,withstylishhoods.
Najlawearsaclosedabayathatislikeacottonponchoandiscalledabaltu.
"Mybaltuismypersonaldesign,"Najlasaid.
Everyyear,shegoestoatailortohaveanewonemade.
"Ialwaystrytomakeitmoreconservative,"shesaid.
"Afewyearsago,Isawsomeabayaswithacoveringforthehands.
Iaddedthat.
"Sheusedtocoverherentirefaceaswell,butherglassesmadethatimpractical,soshewearstheniqab,acoveringthatgoesoverhernoseandunderthegoldrimsofhercat's-eyeglasses.
"Bytheway,somepeoplethinkwemakefacesundertheveil-andwedo,"sheconfided.
"Whydoyoucoveryourfaceatall"Iasked.
"Intheworldofmaleprejudice,whynot"shesaid.
Anothertime,shetoldme,"Ijustdon'tlikepeoplestaringatme.
"Shebeganwearingtheabayawhenshewasaboutfourteen.
ShegaveitupwhenshecametotheUnitedStatestostudy,althoughshecontinuedtoweartheheadscarf,withalongshirtandlongpants.
WhenNajlareturnedhome,sheadoptedthefullveil.
"There'snotanyothergirlinmyfamilywhohasdonewhatIdid,"shesaid.
"Theyuncovertheirfaces,theyshakemen'shands.
Idon't.
"BeforegoingtoAmerica,shestudiedbiologyatKingFaisalUniversity,inDammam,livinginadorm,herwindowfacingahighwallsothatnoonecouldseein.
"Aftermaghreb,thesunsetprayers,I'dgetreallysad,"sherecalled.
"Icouldn'tlivethereanylonger.
IwasspendingtimelearningEnglishjusttogetmyfamilytoagreetoletmegotoAmericatogetmydegree.
Ididn'twanttocomebacktoJeddah,becauseIwasafraidtheywouldmakememarrysomeoneIdidn'tlike.
"HearingNajla'sstories,Ipicturedherparentsclenchingtheirteethastheydealtwiththisstrong-willeddaughter.
"AfterthreeyearsinKingFaisal,Isaidtomyfamily,'Nomore!
'Iquitschoolandcamehome.
Theysaid,'Getmarried.
'Isaidno.
"HerbrotherswereinAmericaandshewantedtogo,too.
Najla'sparentsagreedtoletherfinishherbachelor'sdegreeinKentucky.
"Myfirstinterestwasinpolitics,"shecontinued.
"Ispoketomydad.
Hesaid,'Youwon'tgointopolitics-Iwon'tspendapennyonyou!
'"Reluctantly,shebeganstudyingmicrobiology.
Aftershegotherbachelor'sdegree,NajlawantedtoremainintheStatesformorestudy,butherfamilyorderedfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(12of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageherhometogetmarried.
"ItwastosomeoneIreallydidn'twant,"shesaid.
Shehadneverhadadateinherlife.
Themarriageendedquickly.
"Ihadadivorce.
Iforcedhimtodothat.
"Divorceisadrasticstepinacountrywherewomen'slivesaresocircumscribed.
Withoutamanintheirhome,divorcedwomenareshunnedinSaudisociety.
Asaconsequence,theytendtoformtheirowncommunity;thereisevenaroadinRiyadhcalledtheStreetofDivorcees.
Nonetheless,arecentstudyfoundthatmorethantwentypercentofSaudimarriagesendindivorcewithinayear.
Saudimarriagessufferfromalltheusualafflictions-infidelity,incompatibility,householdviolence-butthebiggestproblemispolygamy.
InIslam,amanisalloweduptofourwivesatatime,andmanySaudihusbandscontinuallychangepartners,apracticethatcausesconstantheartache.
Havingendedhermarriage,Najlacontinuedtopushforindependence.
"Igotoutofmicrobiology,"shesaid.
"Ithought,It'smylife.
I'mgoingtodowhatIwant.
I'mgoingtobeapolitician,nomatterwhatotherpeoplethink.
"ShewentbacktoKentuckyandgotamaster'sdegreeinpoliticalscience.
Iaskedherwhatsheunderstoodpoliticstomeaninacountrywithnopoliticalsystem.
Shesaidthatshewasreferringtosomethinglikesocialwork.
"It'satermIuse,"shesaid.
SpeakingofherGazettework,shesaid,"ThisjobmightnotbeatthelevelofwhatIunderstanda'politician'is.
"Sheadded,"Asajournalist,therearesomanywaysyoucanpushsocietyforward.
Butisiteffective"Anothertime,sheadmitted,"InolongerknowwhatIwant.
"Najlatravelsquitefreely,althoughsheneedsherfather'swrittenpermissiontoleavetown.
Herfamilyhasadriver,butNajladoesn'tlikehim,sowithinJeddahsheusuallygoesbycab.
Eitherway,shethinksthatitisimpropertobeconfinedinthesamevehiclewithaman.
Attheveryleast,shebelieves,thereshouldbeapartitionbetweenthewomanandthedriver.
Thebestsolution,shesays,isallowingwomentodrive.
"Wehavetopayfordrivers,"shesaid.
"Thisisaburdenonwomen.
"Until1990,therewasnolawforbiddingwomentodrive-thesocialprohibitionwassufficient.
Thatyear,morethantwohundredthousandAmericantroops-includingwomenG.
I.
swhodrovetrucksandjeeps-arrivedinthekingdomtorepeltheIraqiinvasionofKuwait.
FiftySaudiwomendecidedthatitwastherighttimetochallengetradition.
TheymetinfrontofaSafewayinRiyadhandorderedtheirdriversoutoftheircars,thentookathirty-minutespinthroughthecapital.
Thepolicedetainedthem,buttherewasnolegalreasontoarrestthem.
TheInteriorMinisterimmediatelybannedthepractice.
TheGrandMuftiatthetime,Abdul-AzizbinBaz,helpfullyaddedafatwa,callingfemaledrivingasourceofdepravity.
Thefemaledrivers'passportswereseized,andthosewhowereemployedlosttheirjobs.
Severalofthemhadbeenprofessorsinthewomen'scollegeofKingSaudUniversity,andtheKinghimselfsuspendedthemaftertheirownfemalestudentsprotestedthattheydidnotwanttobetaughtby"infidels.
"OnawarmSaturdaymorning,IwenttothebeachwithHasanHatrash,HasanBaswaid,andMamdouhal-Harthy.
Theytookmetoasecludedcompoundnorthoftown,runbytheSheraton.
ItwasdesignatedforWesterners,butnearlyeveryonetherewasArab;itwasoneofthefewplacesinJeddahwheremenandwomencouldmixfreely.
Hatrashbroughthisguitar,andakeyboardforme.
Wespentthedayjamming,playingbluesandreggaetunesbesidetheRedSea.
Atonepoint,Hatrashlaunchedinto"RedemptionSong,"byBobMarley.
"Emancipateyourselvesfrommentalslavery,"hesang.
"Nonebutourselvescanfreeourminds.
"Thenwehadabarbecuewithamixedgroupoftheirfriends.
Afterdinner,someonebroughtoutanoud,theArabianlute.
Hatrashpickedupadrum;HasanBaswaidtookoverthekeyboard;andthemusictookasinuousturn.
Wesattheretilllateatnight,menandwomentogether,enjoyingthelightbreezewaftingacrossthewaterfromAfrica-afleetingvisionofwhatSaudiArabiacouldbelikewithouttheenforcedpietythatholdsthesexesapart.
Oneafternoon,IwasintheAlMamlakamall,inRiyadh,waitingwithothershoppersforthestorestoopenaftersunsetprayers.
AgroupofFilipinoswhowerehangingoutinfrontofPlanetHollywoodabruptlyrushedaway,likeaflockofduckstakingflight.
Behindthemcameamuttawa'a.
Hewasasquatmanwithawide,redfaceandablackbearddowntohischest.
Overhisshortenedthobeheworeasheerblackmashlah,aceremonialrobe,withgoldpipingonthesleeves.
Ashewalked,heleanedbackwardintohisauthority,histhumbsstuckinthelapelsofhismashlah.
Oneithersideofhim,andastepbehind,weretwoSaudipolicemen;theywerecomicalbookends,file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(13of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagetallandskinny,withberetsandstringyfundamentalistbeards.
Idecidedtofollowthemaroundthemall,whichhasfourstories,thetopfloorforwomenonly.
Wecircumnavigatedthecomplexasthemuttawa'ashooedthementoanearbymosque,reprimandedwomenwhoseattirefailedtoconformtohisstandards,peekedinstorewindowsatdecapitatedmannequinstomakesurethatnosurreptitiousshoppingwastakingplace,andlookedinrestaurantstomakecertainthattheywereclosedforprayers.
Later,IaskedPrinceAlwaleedbinTalalbinAbdulazizAlSaud,themall'sowner,whoisoneoftherichestmenintheworld,aboutthebullyingmuttawa'a.
"Ipersonallytalkedtothebossofthatchap,whowasabitontheroughside,"hetoldme.
"Ifyoutalktotheirleaders,theyarelogical,pragmaticpeople.
Isaid,'Yourguysarescaringtheheckoutofpeople.
'Hegavethemorderstochange.
"Thereligiouspoliceoftenseemintentonmakingthemselvesridiculous:theywillrandomlyblackoutfacesinadvertisementsinthemallssothatamen'sstorewillfeatureaheadlessphotographofamaninaHugoBosssuit,whilepostersinanearbyGapareuntouched.
YetmostSaudisfearthemuttawa'a.
TheweekbeforeValentine'sDay,themuttawa'abegangoingthroughcardandflowershops,attackinganythingthatwasredorhadheartsonit;floristshidtheirrosesasiftheywerecontraband.
AnumberofSaudistoldmethatmanyofthemuttawa'aareex-convictswhowouldbeunemployableexceptforthefactthatinprisontheymemorizedtheKoran.
Theyreceiveabountyfromthegovernmentforeveryarresttheymake:reportedly,threehundreddollarsforeverySaudi,andhalfthatforaforeigner.
OneJeddahresidentdescribedthemas"anoccupyingforce.
"Hetoldmethattheyhadrecentlyburstinonthegraduationceremonyofhisdaughter'sFrenchelementaryschoolandorderedthechildrentostopsinging"Alouette.
"OneeveninginRiyadh,IwasclimbingintoacabwhenInoticedsomethinghighlyunusual:awomanstandingonthecornerwithherheaduncovered.
Shewasremarkablybeautiful,andlookeddirectlyatme.
Icouldseethatshewasfrightened.
IalmostaskedifIcouldgiveheralift,butthatwouldhavebeenanunthinkablebreachofcustom:asanunmarriedcoupleinthesamecar,wecouldbothbetakentojail.
SoIsaidnothing.
MycabhadtomakeaU-turn,andwhenwecamebackpastthecornerIsawthewomanrunning.
Shenowhadthehoodofherabayaoverherhair.
Sherantoashopandtriedtoopenthedoor,butitwasclosedforprayers.
ThenIsawthatshewasbeingtrailedbyaSuburbanwiththeemblemoftheCommissionforthePromotionofVirtueandthePreventionofViceonthedoor.
Thewomanwentfromdoortodoor,bangingontheglass.
Everyinstinctinmecriedouttohelpher,yetIcouldthinkofnothingthatwouldnotmakethesituationworse.
Irodeon,feelingguiltyandhelpless,asthemuttawa'aclosedin.
Attimes,themaintargetofthemuttawa'a'senergyseemedtobenotvirtuebutlove.
Boysandgirlsarekeptstrictlyseparatethroughouttheireducation,andthemuttawa'apatrolpublicplaces,tryingtokeepromanceatbay.
Flirtingtakesplaceinopportunisticbursts,atstoplightsorinthemall,wheretelephonenumbersarefurtivelyexchanged.
Someyoungpeopleadoptriskierstrategies.
Toseehisgirlfriendinpublic,Mamdouh,theBedouinreporter,dressedupinanabaya.
"Idoitallthetime,"heconfessed.
HasanBaswaidtoldmethatthebestwaytogetaroundthemuttawa'aandmeetgirlswasthroughtheInternet.
Hehadmetanicegirlinachatroom,andhebegantalkingwithheronthetelephone.
Finally,theyarrangedtomeetinacafe,eachbringingasisterasanescort.
Theyenjoyedthedate,andwithinthreemonthsBaswaiddecidedtopropose.
Thegirlaccepted,andtherewasasmallengagementparty,whichincludedmeetingwithherrelativestohaggleoverthedowry.
"Afterthat,sheismywife,"hetoldmethedayofthemeeting.
Thenextmorning,Baswaidreturnedtotheofficeamarriedman-althoughheandhiswifecouldn'tlivetogetheruntilafteraweddingceremony,whichwouldbeheldafewweekslater.
WemetthatdayintheOkazcafeteria.
Likemostnewlymarriedmen,hewasalittlenostalgicforhisbachelordays.
Webegantalkingaboutparties,andherecalledaratherwildeventhehadattendedafewyearsearlier.
ExceptforthefeastdaysattheendofRamadanandthehajj,allholidays,includingbirthdays,arenominallybannedinthekingdom.
Oneyear,however,hevisitedhiscousininDubai,andhiscousin'swife,whoisAmerican,heldaHalloweenmasquerade.
"Shewantedmetodressuplikeawoman,"heconfessed.
file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(14of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessage"Anddidyou"Helaughed,alittleembarrassed.
"Iwenttothepartyforaboutfifteenminutes,thensaidIhadtoleave.
Iwentupstairswithmycousin'swife.
Sheownsabeautysalon.
"TherelativeputNaironhislegsandshavedhisarmsandmustacheandevenhiseyebrows.
"Atthetime,Iworemyhairreallylong.
Soshecurledit.
Shegavemesomepantyhoseandadresswithsocksinthebra.
AndthenIwentdownstairs.
"Thedisguisewasconvincing,andhebegantoflirt-ploppinghimselfonagoodfriend'slap.
Soon,ofcourse,theguestsfiguredoutwhohereallywas.
Hisbuddywasmad,butthewomenwereintriguedbyhisrole-playing.
"Theywere,like,kissingme.
Theyevenletmecomeintothewomen'sbathroom!
"Hehadagreattime,hesaid.
"ButIhatedmyselfinthemorning.
Iwokeupwithnoeyebrows.
""Whatdoesyourfamilythinkaboutyoubeinghere"HasanHatrashaskedmeoneafternoon.
WeweresittingontheflooroftheGazettenewsroomhavinglunch-alargeplatterofgrilledchickenandrice,whichweatewithourfingers.
"They'reallterrified,"Iadmitted.
"Howdidwegetintothissituationwhereeverybodythinkswe'reterrorists!
"hesaidmiserably.
TheWest'sfearoftheArabworldwasmirroredbymanySaudisItalkedto.
YoungpeoplewhohadbeenstudyingintheWestwereafraidtoreturnthere.
BusinessmenconfessedthattheywouldfeelhumiliatediftheytriedtotraveltotheUnitedStatesandwerefingerprinteduponenteringthecountry.
TheseweremenwhohadonceenjoyedthenearlyuniversalaccessthataSaudipassportvouchsafedthem.
Formostofthecountry'sbusinessandintellectualleaders,andformanyoftheroyals,theWesternworldhadbeenarefugefromtheintellectualandsensualsterilityofthekingdom.
Isuspectedthatmanyhadnurturedasecretescapeplanincasetheextremistsgainedcompletecontrol-theywouldretreattosecondhomesinSantaBarbaraorMiami.
Butnowsuchplacesseemedhostiletothem.
Theseelitemenwhohadpridedthemselvesonlivingintwoworldsfelttrappedintheirownsternculture,andtheyweresuffocating.
Onemorning,severaloftheGazettereportersadmittedtomethattheyweredepressed.
"Lastnight,Ididn'tevensleep,"HasanHatrashtoldme.
"Ijustsatonthebeach.
Tillfourinthemorning.
WhenIdosleep,it'slikeI'mdeadforthreedays.
"Iworriedaboutthem,especiallyHatrash.
Hewasalwaysforgettingtoeat,andduringmeetingshejiggledhislegnervously.
Inmanyrespects,hewasourbestreporter,butmusicwashispassion.
Therewasn'taplaceforhiminasocietythatsmotheredartandotherpleasures.
Thefactthathewasinhislatetwenties,livedathome,andcouldn'tmeetwomen-andcouldn'taffordtomarryoneifhedid-alsoweighedonhim.
IntheGazette,BaswaidreportedonasurveyofmorethantwothousandstudentsinJeddah,agedthirteentotwenty-five,thatwasconductedbyaresearcheratKingAbdulAzizUniversity.
Sixty-fivepercentoftheboysandseventy-twopercentofthegirlsshowedsymptomsofdepression;sevenpercentofthegirlsadmittedthattheyhadattemptedsuicide(morethantwicetherateoftheboys).
Drugusewasnearlyfivepercentforbothsexes,aswastherateofalcoholism.
"Fivepercentalcoholismamongintermediateandhigh-schoolstudentsinanIslamiccountryisjarringtoourears,"Dr.
SaudHasanMukhtar,aprofessorattheuniversity,toldBaswaid.
Oneafternoon,Iwenttothegymnearmyapartmentandstarteddoingyogaexercises.
ASaudimansawmedoingaheadstand;hewalkedover,bentdown,andcrankedhisheadsideways.
"Isthatgoodfordepression"heasked.
"Itmightbe,"Isaid.
"Canyoushowmehowtodoit"file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(15of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageIhelpedhimupagainstawall,andafterawhilehelearnedtoholdtheposition.
WhenIwentbacktothelockerroom,itwasprayertime,andfourmenhappenedtobeprayingonthefloordirectlyfacingmylocker.
Iwaitedforthemtofinish.
OneofthemaskedmeafterwardifIwouldstartayogaclass.
"Maybeitwillhelprelievethestress,"hesaid.
Suchpoliteentreatiescaughtmeoffguard.
BeforearrivinginSaudiArabia,Ihadexpectedloudconfrontationsthatwentonintothenight,asIhadexperiencedinCairointhespringof2002.
Buttherewaslittleofthenaturalexuberance,humor,andmischiefthataresomuchapartoftheEgyptiancharacter.
WhatIfoundinsteadwasquietdespair,anominousemotionalflatness.
InMarch,asoft-spokenretiredchemistryprofessorinvitedmetohavelunchathishouse,inRiyadh.
Theplacewasimpressive;ithadmarblefloors,andtwolargepublicroomswiththechairspushedagainstthewall,intheIslamicstyle.
Ilearnedthathiswifeanddaughterswouldbejoiningus-anextraordinarilykindandopengestureforsuchaconservativeman.
ThepresentationofaSaudifamilyisacarefulritual.
Theprotocolbeginswiththeentryoftheyoungestson,whointhiscasewasanofficerintheSaudiAirForceandaveteranoftheGulfWar.
Afterwechattedforafewminutes,theolderson,abanker,joinedus.
Thenthefathercamein,andacceptedakissonthetopofhisheadfromhisolderson.
Theyinvitedmetothekitchentoeat,ratherthanthediningroom,whichwasanhonor.
Theprofessor'swifeappearedandsatdownattheheadofalongtable,andwebegantoeatfromeighthugeplattersoffood.
Then,onebyone,hisfourgrowndaughtersanddaughters-in-lawcametothetable.
Theywereallintelligent,welleducated,andhospitable,andtheconversationwassoagreeablethatIwasunpreparedfortheargumentthatfollowed.
TheprofessorbegantalkingabouttheblackboxesinthehijackedplanesthathadstrucktheWorldTradeCenter.
HequestionedtheAmericans'claimthattheyhadnotsurvived.
Thenhespokeabouttheunsolvedanthraxpoisoningsthatfollowedtheattack,suggestingthatitwastheUnitedStatesgovernmentthathadcarriedthemout,toscarepeople.
"Whatkindofcountrydoyouthinkweare"Isaidheatedly.
"Doyouthinkwearereallysowickedthatwewouldpoisonourowncitizens""Youhavegottenangryinmyhouse,"theprofessorsaid,offended.
TheconversationinevitablyturnedtowardthenotionthattheMossadortheC.
I.
A.
hadengineeredthehijackings.
Thelogicisbasedontwoassumptions:thattheseorganizationswereschemingforanexcusetoattacktheArabworld,andthatArabsaretooincompetenttohavepulledofftheattacks.
Ihadhadthesamediscussioncountlesstimes,althoughtheSaudiswhovoicedthisviewdidn'tseemtoholdontoitwiththesametenacityasEgyptiansIhadmettheyearbefore.
"Let'saskyourson,"Isuggested,whentheprofessorsaidthatnoneofthehijackershadsufficienttrainingtohandleacommercialairliner.
"Let'saskthepilothowharditis.
"Theofficerlookedathisfatherandsaid,"ToramaskyscraperonacloudlessdayIshouldthinkitwouldbetheeasiestthingintheworld.
"Theroomwasquiet-thefamilystunned,Ithink,thattheyoungestsonwouldopenlycontradicthisfather.
"Doyouaccepthistestimony"Igentlyaskedthefather,butheonlyturnedaway.
Ihadthesensethatthegenerationswereengagedinastruggleoverthefutureofthecountry,butitwasnotatallclearthattheyounghadabettervisionofwhatneededtobedone.
Iwentoneeveningtoadiwaniyya,aweeklymen'sdinnerthatisakindofliteraryandpoliticalsalon.
Wesatontheflooruntilpastmidnight,eatingfromplattersoflambandrice.
Mostofthemenwereprofessionals:lawyers,editors,doctors.
"WewereeducatedinAmerica,andIseetheworldgoingagainsteverythingIhavebuilt,"saidDr.
Mujahidal-Sawwaf,alawyerinJeddahandafile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(16of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageformerprofessoratUmmal-QuraUniversity,inMecca.
"Wewerealwaysforliberalism,butsomeoftheterroristsweremystudents.
""MydaughterisforbinLaden,"anotherofthemenadmitted.
"WhenIgotowakeherup,IseepicturesofPalestiniangirlmartyrsonherwall.
Itscaresmetodeath.
Ifwegointoherroomatnight,she'llbelisteningtoBritneySpears,butassoonasweclosethedoorshe'slisteningtomartyrsongs.
"Theothermennodded.
"Theycometousandsay,'Dad,whydidn'tyoufightin1948and1967'Theyseeusascowards,"adentistsaid.
"Oneofthechildrensaidtome,'Uncle,isittruethatwhenyouwenttotheWestyoubecameapuppetlikeourleadership'Ourkidsdon'twanttostudyinAmerica,aswedid.
""BinLadenchangedourlife.
HeprovedthatmightyAmericaisvulnerable.
Tous,we'reafraidofourfuture,buttheyouththinkAmericaisonthevergeofcollapsingandit'stimeforustofightit.
""Weareafraidofourchildren.
"OnabrightAprilmorning,IdroveuptoTaif,alovelymountaintowntwohoursoutsideJeddahthatisfamousforitsroses,andmetareporterfromaSaudibusinesspaper.
WeweretryingtoseethebrotherofHaniHanjour,whoisthoughttohavebeenthepilotoftheairplanethatcrashedintothePentagon,andweparkedoutsidetheimposingtwo-storymarblehousewhereHanjourgrewup.
Hisfatherwasaprovisionerforanearbymilitarybase.
Itwasn'tuntilsometimeaftermidnightthatYasserHanjourcameoutsideandgotintothebackseat.
Slightandmeek,helookedunsettlinglylikehissad-eyedolderbrother.
Yassertoldmethathewasinthewomen'sgarmentbusiness.
Ashesawit,hisbrother'sstorywasasimpleone.
Hanihadneverwantedtobeanythingotherthanapilot.
HehadtrainedinAmerica,wherehehadsuddenlybecomeveryreligious.
Whenhereturnedfromhisfirsttripthere,heappliedforajobatSaudiArabianAirLinesbutwasturneddown.
Hedisappearedintohisroomforsixmonths.
"Whywashesodepressed"Iasked.
"Youknowthereason,"thebusinessreportersaidimpatiently.
"Thisjoblessness.
"Yassershruggedandagreed.
Therewasasamenesstothestoriesofthehijackerpilots.
TheyhadbecomeMuslimextremistsinEuropeandAmerica-presumablyasawayofholdingontotheirsenseofwhotheywereintheengulfingWest.
Theirownculturesofferedthemnowaytobepowerfulintheworld.
Traditionally,theSaudigovernmentabsorbednearlyalltheuniversitygraduates,butaftertheoilshockofthemid-eightiesthegovernment,whichbecamesaddledwithdebt,couldnolongerhireasbefore.
UnemploymentandidlenessbecamecentralfactsoflifeforyoungSaudimen(astheyhadalwaysbeenforSaudiwomen).
BinLadengaveyoungmenwithnocontrolovertheirlivesanidentity,andawantonchancetomakehistory.
"Deathisbetterthanlifeinhumiliation!
"binLadensaid.
ThatisaconstantthemeofbinLaden'sspeeches.
Oneofthecriticaldocumentsinunderstandinghisgoals,andhisappeal,ishis"DeclarationofWarAgainsttheAmericansOccupyingtheLandoftheTwoHolyPlaces,"writtenin1996,inwhichhecitesthesourcesofArabs'shame.
Althoughthe"Declaration"callsonMuslimseverywheretofight"JewsandCrusaders,"theheartofitsargumentisapopulistattackonthemismanagementoftheSaudieconomy.
"Everybodytalksaboutthedeteriorationoftheeconomy,aboutinflation,andabouttheever-increasingdebts,"hewrites.
"MorethanthreehundredandfortybillionSaudiriyalsareowedbythegovernmenttothepeople-inadditiontothedailyaccumulatedinterest,letalonetheforeigndebt!
Peoplewonderwhetherwearethelargestoilexportingcountry!
TheyevenbelievethatthissituationisacurseputonthembyAllahfornotobjectingtotheoppressiveandillegitimatebehaviorandmeasuresoftherulingregime.
"Inacountrywherediscontentwiththerulingfamilyiswidespreadbutrarelyexpresseddirectly,whereresentmentagainstthepowerandinfluenceoftheWestisnearlyuniversal,andwhereunemploymentiscreatingaclassofwell-educatedbutidleyoungmen,binLaden'swordsresonatedsostronglyinpartbecausenooneelsewouldsaythem.
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htm(17of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessage"Oursocietyisconfused,"Abdullahal-Shehri,thelinguisticsprofessor,toldmeduringanotherStarbucksseminar.
HewasfromthesametribeasthreeofthefifteenSaudihijackers,butthatscarcelysetshimapartinacountrywhoseinhabitantsaresointimatelyboundtogether.
"ItbothersmealotwhenIseethingsaboutoursocietythatarenegativeorbackward,whichintheWestareblamedonreligion.
YoucaneasilylookbackatMuslimhistory,attheUmayyadsandtheAbbasids,andseehowpowerfulIslamicculturewasbackthen.
Whathaschangedisthementalityandtheculture.
Islamisareligionoftolerance,butnowthereisasenseoffrustrationanddefeatthatmakespeoplehateothers.
Forsome,hatebecomestheironlyweapon.
Ifyoucan'tbeatthem,hatethem.
""Fromnowon,youshouldbeMr.
Sewage,"IsaidtoHasanHatrash,whowasnotquitepersuaded.
"Itwillmakeyourcareer.
Thisisa'Holyshit!
'story,Iguaranteeyou.
"Helaughed.
"Yeah,Iseeyourpoint,mon,"hesaid.
ThesewagestorywouldrequireHatrash,whohadneverfinishedcollege,tolearnaboutgeology,epidemiology,sewagetreatment,dams,citybuildingcodes,andlegalprocedures.
Hewasintimidated,buthewasalsoaquickstudy.
Hisself-taughtEnglishwassofluentthathecouldpassforanAmerican(oraJamaican).
HealsospokepassableJapaneseandGerman.
Hebegantoexplorethestorycautiously,notentirelytrustingmyenthusiasm.
Whatwasthepointofwritinganexposeinacountrywhereitcouldn'tbepublishedItookhimtointerviewHusseinShobokshi,thecontractorwhohadoriginallytoldmeaboutthesewageproblem.
HereceivedusinadarkofficewhosewallswerecoveredwithbeautifulexamplesofArabiccalligraphy.
Ipulledoutmylegalpadandmytaperecorder;Hatrashtookafoldedsheetofnotebookpaperfromthepocketofhisthobe.
IaskedShobokshiwhyhewasbotheringtosueJeddah'sformerdirectorofsewage.
Saudicourtshavealwaysbeenprotectiveofgovernmentofficials.
"HyundaiwonacaseagainsttheMinistryofPublicWorks,"Shobokshitoldus.
"Sothatgotmethinking,Maybethejudicialsystemiswillingtoraisethebarabit.
Webegancollectingtestimonials.
It'sbeenmycrusade.
"Shobokshistartedcataloguingthecostsofthesewagecrisis:real-estatepriceshavedroppedbyseventypercentinsomedistricts;thebeachesarepollutedandmarinelifeisdying;sewageiseatingintothecity'slimestonebedrock.
Hegaveusreferencesformedicalsourcesandenvironmentalstudies,includingonecommissionedbytheJeddahChamberofCommerceandIndustrythathesaidwarnedofahepatitisepidemic.
"Wewillseepeopledying,andbuildingswillcollapse.
Itwillcertainlygetworsebeforeitgetsbetter.
"WhenweleftShobokshi'soffice,Hatrashwasexcited.
Hebegantalkingaboutallthesourceshewasgoingtointerview.
Iaskedtoseehisnotes.
Icouldseesomefigures-morethansixtypercentofthepalmtreesweredying,forinstance-scribbledonthefoldedpaper,butthetextureofShobokshi'sconversationwasmissing.
Igavehimalittlelectureabouttheimportanceofcapturingquotesandthensenthimofftopursuethestory.
Meanwhile,IwenttospeakwithRameshBalan,themanagingeditoroftheGazette.
Anon-MuslimfromsouthernIndia,hedartsaroundthenewsroomlikeahummingbird,andhetalksfasterthanhemoves.
Ifyoucouldholdhiminplaceforamoment,youwouldobserveadashing,grayingmaninhismid-forties.
Oneday,heemergedfromhisofficeandcried,"Lookatthis!
"HewaswavingacopyoftheArabNews.
TheheadlinereportedthearrestofeightAlQaedasuspectsinvolvedinaJanuaryshoot-outinRiyadh.
"Localcoverage,hereonthefrontpage!
"hesaidwithjealousy.
"I'mgoingtoretaliate.
"Rameshhandedmeabunchofletterstotheeditorandsaidthatperhapstheywouldinspireanassignment.
IcameacrossahandwrittenletterfromaSaudisoldier.
"Pleasehelpus,"itsaid.
Thewritercomplainedthatallthesoldiersinhisunithadjustseentheirsalariescutinhalf.
IcalledHasanBaswaidovertomydesk.
"Doyouknowanybodyinthemilitary"Iasked.
Baswaidnodded.
Hehadmoreconnectionsthananyoneelseintheoffice.
Ihandedhimthesoldier'sletter.
"Whyfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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%20rare%20look%20inside%20a%20closed%20society.
htm(18of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagedon'tyoucallaroundandseeifothersoldiersarehavingtheirsalariescutThiscouldbeabigstory.
"Baswaidquicklysettheletterbackonmydesk.
Heputhishandstogetherasifhewereinhandcuffs.
"Thiscouldputyouinthecalaboose,"hesaidwithasheepishgrin.
Alittlewhilelater,however,hecamebymydeskandtoldmeofarumorthathadwashedoverthecity:thebinLadenswerechangingtheirname.
"They'regoingtocallthemselves'A'wadh,'"hesaid.
ItwasOsamabinLaden'sgrandfather'sname.
Theirmotivationformakingthechangewasunderstandable-ifitwastrue.
"Hasan,getthisstoryandyourbylinewillbeonthefrontpageofeverypaperintheworld.
"Baswaidshruggedandgavemealook.
"Letmeworryaboutgettingitpublished,"Isaid.
"Doyouthinkyoucangetsomeonetoconfirmit"Baswaidbecameverysober.
"IknowhissonAbdullahalittle,"hesaid.
"Canyoutalktohim""Maybe.
"Baswaidstartedmakingcallsonhismobilephone.
Meanwhile,IwenttovisitRamesh.
HewassmartingfromaconfrontationwithDr.
AhmedAl-Yusuf,theGazette'seditor-in-chief,amanIsawonlyrarely.
RameshsaidthathehadwantedtorunabigstoryaboutLibyawithdrawingitsambassadortothekingdomafteraclashbetweenMuammarQaddafiandCrownPrinceAbdullahatanArabLeaguemeeting.
Dr.
Yusuforderedthatthestorybeplayeddown.
"Hedoesn'tknowwhatrealpressfreedomis!
"Rameshsaid.
Hetookafewdeepbreaths.
"I'mabouttohaveanervousbreakdown!
"ItoldhimaboutHasanBaswaid'sstory.
"Willyouprintit"Iasked.
"Iftheydon'tprintit,I'llquit!
"heexclaimed.
Hesuddenlyseemedexhilarated.
Rameshthenofferedmeanexcitingpieceofinformation:thesewageworkersinJeddahwereonstrike.
Webothfeltalittlegiddy.
WecouldenvisiontheGazettefrontpagewiththebinLadennamechange,acitysewagestrike,andareferencetothewithdrawaloftheLibyanambassador-whatanewsday!
IsentHasanHatrashofftothemunicipalyardwherethesewagetruckstypicallygathered.
"Thedriversaren'tonstrike,"hereported.
"Theyareafraid,becausethepoliceareimpoundingtheirtrucks.
"Asaresult,thedriverswerestayinghome,lettingthewastebuildup.
"Whyintheworldwouldtheydothat"Hatrashsaidhewouldfindout,butitwasalreadyafterteno'clock,andthepaper'sdeadlinewasonlyanhouraway.
Meanwhile,Baswaidwasstandingatmydeskexpectantly.
"IfoundAbdullahbinLaden,"hetoldme.
"He'shavingdinnerrightnowattheItalianrestaurant.
"TherestaurantwasinastripshoppingcenteroffMedinaRoad,abouttwentyminutesaway-less,givenBaswaid'sdriving,whichIdecidedtothinkofasakindofvideogame.
Therewasasmallpatioinfrontoftherestaurant,andfouryoungmenwereseatedatatable,laughing.
BaswaidandIenteredwithstudiedcasualchatter,planningtomakeitallseemnatural.
Abdullahandtwoofhisfriendsworethobes;theotherfriendwasinjeansandworearastahat.
Allwereintheirmiddletwenties.
Wesatdownatatablenexttotheirs,andAbdullahtooknoapparentnotice.
Hewastallandclean-shavenandhisheadwasuncovered.
Hishairwasclose-cropped,almoststubbly;hisnosewaslongandflat,likehisfather's.
Themildeyeswerethesame.
file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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%20rare%20look%20inside%20a%20closed%20society.
htm(19of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageBaswaidgotupandwentinsidetherestaurant,thenreturnedtothepatiowithapackofcigarettes.
HepretendedtohavejustrecognizedAbdullah,andwalkedover,smiling.
Afewpleasantrieswereexchanged,thenAbdullahturnedtobeintroducedtome.
IntheSaudistyle,hebrushedmyhandandtouchedhisheart.
Baswaidaskedthequestion.
Abdullahdeniedtherumor.
"It'smyname,andIamveryproudofit.
Thereisnowaytochangeit,"hesaid.
Hedidn'tsoundplaintiveorembarrassed.
"Shouldwedoastoryanyway"BaswaidaskedaswewatchedtheyoungmengettingintoanS.
U.
V.
withdarkenedwindows.
IsuggestedthatBaswaidcontinuetoaskaround,tofindout,forinstance,iftheSaudiBinladinGroup,thefamilyconstructioncompany,waschangingitsname.
Therewasstillapossibilitythatthefamilywouldseekthechangeontheirpassports,butmorereportingwouldberequiredbeforethestorycouldrun.
Thenextmorning,theGazette'sfrontpagedidcarryHasanHatrash'sstory,headlined"jeddahsewagedisposalstops.
"Thedriverswereperplexed,hereported.
"Wedon'tknowwhythecopsareharassingus,"onesaid.
Homeownerswerealreadycomplainingofoverflowingseptictanksthatwerefloodingthecitystreets.
Inasingleskillfulanecdote,Hasancaughtthesenseofadisasterinthemaking:IrfanKhan,anIndian,whohadjustgotbackfromworktofindhisground-floorapartmentinatotalmessfromoverflowingtoilets,waslividwithrage.
"Come,lookatmycarpets,mykitchen-howwillIeverliveherenow!
"heraved.
"Getbackin!
"hebrokeofftoyellattwochildrenwantingtotryoutthesteppingstonesdottingacesspoolonthestreet.
"Nowthere'llbemosquitoesanddisease-andalreadythereisaDenguefeverscareinthecity!
"Bythetimethearticleappeared,theimpactofthesewageproblemwasobviousthroughoutJeddah.
Inmanyplaces,thestreetswerewet;hideouslakeswereformingoutofgurglingspouts.
Nevertheless,noothernewspaperhadtakennoticeofthecrisis.
Hatrashthenlearnedthatthepolicewereconfiscatingthetrucksbecausethedrivershadn'tpaidanewdisposalfeeatthesewagepond.
Atmyurging,Hatrashtrackeddowntheidledrivers.
Hecamebackandwroteastorythatbegan,"Policehaveimpoundedtrucksinthepastweekbecauseofafailuretoremitanewdisposalfee.
""Howmuchisthefee"Iasked.
"Fiveriyals.
""ThiswholecityisdrowninginshitbecauseoffiveriyalsHasan,paintthepicture!
Sewagecollectionhasstopped.
Toiletsareoverflowing.
Thestreetsareturningintolakesofexcrement.
Andwhy""Allbecauseofameaslyfiveriyals!
"Hatrashwentbacktowork.
Thestorywasterrific.
Thepolicehadbeenpressuredbythemayor'sofficetoconfiscatethetrucksofthedriverswhorefusedtopaythenewfee.
Butthedriverswerebeingforcedtopayoutoftheirownpockets,andmanyofthemscarcelyhadenoughtocovertheirgas.
Sewagefromthestreetswasstreamingintopeople'shouses,andalthoughhomeownerswerewillingtopayanyamountforservice,thedriverswereafraidoflosingtheirtrucks.
Thehealthdepartmentwarnedaboutthedangerofhepatitis,butthemayor'sofficerefusedcomment,sayingsimplythattheproblemwould"endsoon.
"Forthefirsttime,theGazettewaslookinglikearealnewspaper.
TheheadlineofHasan'snextarticlewas"municipalitycavesin-sewagedisposalresumesinjeddah.
"Strangely,wewereagaintheonlypapertocarrythestory.
Withinaweek,thedriverswereidledoncemore,overthesamedispute.
"Ijustlearnedsomethinginteresting,"Hatrashtoldmeonemorning.
Iwasgleefullyreadinghislatestpiece,titled"problemover,saysmayor,asjeddahsinksinsewage.
"Therewasafullpageofphotographsshowingimpassablepuddlesinthestreetsandfloodedfrontyards.
"Ihaveasourcewhotellsmethatthedecisiontoimposethenewfeecamefromthegovernor,PrinceAbdulAzizbinMajid,"hecontinued.
"ThePrincesentaletterorderingthisnewplantobeimplemented.
Theyfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(20of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagewantedthefive-riyaltolltopayforthenewsewagedam.
"Thetwenty-five-million-riyaldam,whichwouldbackuptheexistingone,wastobebuiltbytheSaudiBinladinGroup.
Hatrashsaidhehadspokentoageologistwhopointedoutthatthenewconcretedamwaspotentiallyworsethantheoldsandone,becauseitwouldexpandthereservoirandaddsignificantpressuretotheearthquakefaultthatrandirectlybelowit.
OnegreattremorwouldletlooseatorrentofsludgethatcouldturnJeddahintoamodernPompeii.
"Let'smakeastoryoutofit,"Isaid.
"Itwouldbesucharelieftotellthetruth,"Hatrashsaid.
Thatdidn'thappen.
OncetherumorsaboutthePrince'sinvolvementbegantocirculate,thestorydied.
WesoonlearnedthatnotonlywasthePrincebehindthefive-riyaltollbuthewasfrontinganewcompanythatproposedtobuildasewersystemforthecity,whichwouldcostthekingdomtwentybillionriyals.
Noneofthisinformation,however,endedupintheGazette.
Theeditor-in-chiefwouldneverprintit.
Meanwhile,thetruckcontractorswereforcedtopaythefee,andtheimmediatecrisispassed-butthePrincepaidnopoliticalpriceforendangeringthehealthofthecitizensanddespoilingthecity.
Afewweekslater,theGazettereceivedatantalizingletter-apleafromagroupofIndiantaxi-drivers.
Fiftyofthemhadbeenbroughttothekingdomsevenyearsbeforewiththepromiseofofficejobsinprivatecompaniesandaguaranteedmonthlywageofsixhundredriyals.
(Theyincludedacopyofthecontractwiththeirletter.
)Upontheirarrival,theemployerseizedtheirpassportsandtheirresidencepermits,andtoldthemthattheyactuallywouldbe"limousinedrivers"-thatis,cabbies-andthat,ratherthanreceivingawage,theywouldberequiredtopayrentontheirtaxis.
Someofthemendidn'tevenhaveadriver'slicense,buttheywereallthrownoutontothechaoticstreetsofJeddah.
Afterenduringaseriesofindignities,includingbeatings,fifteenofthemenhadgoneonstrike.
Themenwerecrowdedintoahovel,stranded,hungry-virtualprisoners.
Thereisnoclearfigureonhowmanyexpats(asallforeignworkersarecalled)areinthekingdom-fourmillion,ninemillion,nobodyknows-butveryfewpeopleknowhowmanySaudisthereare,either.
"SinceKingFaisal'scensusinthesixties,theactualpopulationfigurehasbeenastatesecret,"asourceclosetotheInteriorMinistrytoldme.
"TheKingsawthefigurewaslow,andheimmediatelydoubledit.
"AccordingtoC.
I.
A.
statistics,thenativepopulationisaboutnineteenmillion,buttheactualnumberofSaudismaybeasfewastenmillion.
Certainlyonehasthefeeling,inthecitiesatleast,thattherearealmostasmanyexpatsasSaudis.
Expatsholdsevenoutoftenjobsinthekingdom,andninetypercentofallprivate-sectorpositions.
A1999studyrevealedthattheysenthomeaboutfourteenbilliondollarsthatyear.
Fordecades,theSaudigovernmenthasbeenattemptingtoreplaceforeignerswithnativeworkers,butithasrunintoresistancefromemployerswhodon'twanttohiretheirownpeople.
"Saudisaren'tqualified,"PrinceSultanbinSalmanbinAdbulAziz,thesecretary-generalfortourism,toldme.
"Showingupforajobisnotapriorityforthem.
Eventhecultureofworkingasateamisnotthere.
"Increasingly,theunemployednativestendtoviewtheBangladeshihouseboys,theLebanesewaiters,andtheEgyptianbarberswithresentmentratherthangratitude.
"Wehateit!
"aSaudifriendexclaimedwhenIaskedhowhefeltwhenhehadtospeakEnglishorUrdujusttoordercoffee.
Entry-levelservicejobs,however,areformsofemploymentthatSaudisrefusetoaccept.
TheexpatreadershipoftheGazettewould,Ithought,seetheIndian-cabbiestoryinasympatheticlight.
IarrangedforthreeofthedriverswhohadsignedthelettertocometotheGazetteofficestotalktoFaisalBajaber,asmartIndianreporterwhohadjustgraduatedfromhighschool.
ThecabdriverswereledbyNainanPhilopose,asmall,intensemaninadirtyshirt;hearrivedcarryingafileofdocuments.
Hehadthebearingofamanwhoisnoteasilyintimidated.
HiswifewasdesperatelyillinIndia,hetoldus.
Hehadplannedtovisither,but,whenhesoughthispassportfromhisemployer,companygoonshaddraggedhimtoadetentioncenterforillegalaliens.
Theownerofthelimousinecompanybeathiminfrontofseveralimmigrationofficers.
PhiloposeandsomeothermenhadcomplainedtotheIndianEmbassyabouttheirtreatment,tonoeffect.
Becausetheywereexpats,theyhadnoreallegalstandinginthecountry.
TheiremployerhadmadethemsigndocumentsinArabicthattheycouldn'tfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(21of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageread,aswellassomeblanksheetsofpaper.
OneofthedriverstoldFaisalthattheownerofthecompanyhadhisownjail,wherehelockedupdriverswhodefiedhim.
IwatchedFaisalinterviewingthedriversinUrdu.
Althoughhehadlivednearlyhisentirelifeinthekingdom,Faisalwasnotallowedtoattendthepublicuniversities,becausehedidn'thaveSaudicitizenship.
Andyethespokefivelanguages;hisEnglishwasnearlyflawless.
Heaskeddetailedquestionsandtookcarefulnotes.
Hehadthemakingsofanexcellentjournalist.
Faisalpresentedthestoryatareporters'meeting.
Dr.
Shoukanylistenedsleepilyuntilheheardthattheownerofthelimousinecompanyhadaprivatejail.
Thenhenearlyjumpedoutofhischair.
"He'snotaprince,ishe"heasked.
"NoWell,we'llgoafterhim!
"Afterseveralweeks,Faisalproducedadraft.
Theownerofthelimousinecompanyhaddodgedhim,sayingonlythatthedriverswerelying.
Nowthedriversandtheownerwereheadedforlaborcourt,wheresuchdisputesarenearlyalwaysresolvedinfavoroftheSaudiemployers.
Faisalcalledmetosaythattherewasaproblemwiththestory.
IwentintoRamesh'sofficetofindFaisalandDr.
Yusuf,theeditor-in-chief,whowasreadingthedraft.
Thereporterswerefrightenedofhim.
Hewasaslightmanwithshrewdeyesandanunexpectedgiggle,buthehadanunguardedtemperandhedidn'tmindhumiliatinghisemployees.
Yusufwasn'treallyanewsman-hewasaformerprofessorofadvertising-butItriedtoappealtohissenseofcommunity.
TherereallywasnoreasonfortheGazettetoexistifitdidn'taddressthekindsofconcernsdetailedinthecabdriverstory.
YusufwavedthedraftdismissivelyandobservedthatFaisalhadn'ttalkedtotheIndianEmbassy.
Thatseemedasmall,ifvalid,point.
FaisalhadaletterregisteringacomplaintbytheEmbassyonbehalfofthedrivers.
Yusufalsonotedthatthecourthearingwasthefollowingmorning.
"Wedon'twanttoputpressureonthegovernment,"hesaid.
"What'swrongwiththat"Iasked.
Yusufexplainedthatthecabdriverswouldpaythepriceforanyquixoticeffortonourparttochampiontheircase.
ThenhehandedthestorybacktoFaisal.
Iprotestedabit,butwalkedoutcompliantly.
MaybeDr.
Yusufwasright.
Ididn'twantthepennilesscabdriverstobepunishedbecauseofmyprinciples.
IrecalledthestoryofAbdal-KarimMara'ial-Naqshabandi,aSyrianexpatworkerwhohadbeensentencedtodeathforallegedlypracticingwitchcraftagainsthisemployer,anephewofKingFahd.
Theevidenceagainsthimwasabsurd.
Human-rightsworkersjumpedonthecase,whentheydiscoveredthatNaqshabandi'semployerhadwantedhimtofalselytestifyagainstanotheremployee,and,whenherefused,madethewitchcraftcharge.
Naqshabandibecameacausecelebre,buthewaspreemptorilybeheaded-agrislymessagetooutsiderswhomeddledinSaudiaffairs.
Thenextday,thecabdriverswenttolaborcourt.
FaisaltoldmethattheArabicdocumentthattheyhadsignedwhentheyfirstarrivedinthekingdomreleasedtheownerfromanyfinancialliability.
Theowneralsoproducedotherdocuments,apparentlymadeupfromtheblanksheetsofpaperthedrivershadsigned,whichsaidthattheyowedhimseveralthousandriyalseach.
"Whatwillhappentothemnow"Iasked.
"They'regoingtoprison,"hetoldme.
Faisal'sstoryonthedriversneverappeared.
"Seethatbuilding"alawyersaidtomeunderhisbreathaswedrovedownTahliaStreet.
Heindicatedwithhiseyesalargetwo-storystructureatthecornerofMedinaRoad.
"That'sthepoliticaljail.
"Therewasnothingnotableaboutitexceptfortheabsenceofshopsorsignsonthegroundfloor.
Ididn'tseeanyobvioussecurityforcesaroundit.
Thelawyersaidthathehadhadclientsdetainedthereinthepast.
file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(22of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessage"Who'sintherenow"Iasked.
"Whoknows"Thenatureandthescopeoftherepressionwerehardtocalculate.
Ididencounterfrequentroadblocks,designedmainlytotrapillegalresidents.
AmericanintelligenceofficialshadtoldmetoexpectthattheSaudiswouldmonitormyphonecallsande-mails-andevenbreakintomyapartmentandclonemycomputer.
SoIwasonguard.
IncontrastwithEgypt,wherenearlyeveryoneknewsomebodywhohadbeenillegallyarrested,andoftentortured,inSaudiArabiafewpeoplecouldsaythattheyknewsomeonewhohadbeendetainedforpoliticalreasons.
Jeddahresidentswerealwayslookingovertheirshoulders,buthadonlyvaguerumorstoreportwhenIpressedthem.
IdidmeetamanwhohadbeentorturedbytheSaudisecretpolicetenyearsbefore.
"Theytickledmehere,"hesaid,showingmehishands,whichwerescarredbyknifewounds.
Theythoughthehadhelpedadissidentescapethecountry.
"IfIknewhowtodothat,Iwouldescapemyself!
"hehadtoldthem.
"Youarebeingwatched,"aGazetteeditoroncetoldme.
Hespoketomeinastairwell,whereheassumedwewouldn'tbeoverheard.
"Howdoyouknow""AmancamethismorningfromthesecretpolicetoseeDr.
Yusuf.
Afterthis,Dr.
Yusufcalledmeintoaskaboutyou.
"IaskedwhatDr.
Yusufwantedtoknow.
"Howyouweredoing,whatyouwereupto,"theeditorsaid.
Thatdidn'tsoundsosinister.
Dr.
Yusufrepeatedlyaskedaboutmywelfareandkindlyexpressedconcernformysafety,especiallysince,duringmystay,severalWesternerswereassassinated.
NoonefromtheMinistryofInformationcametoseeme,nominderswereassigned,andifanyonecouldfollowmeinJeddahtrafficherepresentedaforcebeyondreckoning.
ButsuspiciondarkenedtheatmosphereinSaudiArabia,evenamongpeoplewhoworkedtogethereveryday.
IaskedMahmoudShukri,aseventeen-year-oldreporter,wherehisfriendsweregoingtoschool.
"Wedon'ttelleachotherthingslikethat,"hesaid.
Whenheaskedmyadviceaboutcollegeplans,wehadtomeetoutsidetheoffice,toavoidbeingoverheard.
"Ifyouletpeopleknowwhatyouareupto,theymightbeenvious,"heexplained.
Telephonenumberswereespeciallyhardtoobtain.
OneofthemoreexperiencedGazettereporterskeptanoldledgerwithhandwrittennumbershehadcompiledovertheyears;itwasperhapsthemostvaluabledocumentintheentireoffice,giventhereluctanceofmanySaudistobelisted.
Bynow,IhadbeguntolookatSaudisocietyasacollectionofopposingforces:theliberalsagainstthereligiousconservatives,theroyalfamilyversusdemocraticreformers,theunemployedagainsttheexpats,theoldagainsttheyoung,menagainstwomen.
Thequestioniswhethertheangerthatresultsfromallthisconflictwillbedirectedoutward,attheWest,orinward,attheSaudiregime.
IwenttotheMinistryofInterior,inRiyadh,hopingtogainpermissiontotalktomembersofSaudiintelligencewhohadinvestigatedtheSeptember11thhijackers.
TheministryisoneofthelargestbranchesoftheSaudigovernment,withhalfamillionemployees.
Itsbuildingisagiantinvertedpyramid,whichloomslikeaDeathStarontheedgeofdowntownRiyadh.
Iwastoldthatthearchitectwasapoet,andthatthebuildingwasastructuralcatastrophe.
Itcertainlyprojectsanairofmenace.
Insidethemarbleatrium,blacktubularelevatorcolumnsrisethroughtheinteriorbalconies.
Thesummitofthisupside-downbuildingisadomewithaneight-pointedstar.
MyappointmentwaswithDr.
Sa'idal-Harthi,whowasanadvisertotheInteriorMinisterandthechairmanoftheboardofOkaz-andthereforeatthetopoftheGazettemasthead.
AlllinesofpowerintheSaudipressconvergeinfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(23of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagethisbuilding.
IhadbeenpromisedaninterviewwithPrinceNaif,theInteriorMinister,andhadpreparedalonglistofquestionsaboutthehijackers.
AyearafterSeptember11th,thePrincehadassertedthatZionistswerebehindtheplot.
"Icannotstillbelievethatnineteenyouths,includingSaudis,carriedouttheSeptember11thattackswiththesupportofbinLaden,"hesaid.
"It'simpossible.
"Then,inFebruary,SaudipoliceroundedupmorethanninetyAlQaedasuspects;nevertheless,PrinceNaifmaintainedthattherewasnoterroristthreatinSaudiArabia.
Itseemedlikeabizarreblindnessonthepartofthemanchargedwithprotectingthekingdom,andIwaseagertohearhisexplanation.
Dr.
Harthihadotherideas,however.
HewantedtotalkonlyabouttheGazette.
HeaskedmewhatIthoughtcouldhelpsales.
"Thecirculationhasshrunktonearlynothing,"hesaid.
Hehadacopyofthepaperonhisdeskandglancedatitwithoutactuallyreadingit.
"Ithinkthenameistheproblem,"hecontinued.
"'SaudiGazette'soundslikeagovernmentpublication.
"Itoldhimthatitwouldsellmorecopiesifitwereabetterpaper-ifitcoveredlocalnewsandtookmorecourageouseditorialstands.
"Idon'tthinkthatPrinceNaifwouldreallybethathelpfultoyou,"Dr.
Harthisaid.
Ittookamomentformetorealizethathehadabruptlycancelledmyappointment.
AfewhoursafterIvisitedtheministry,ahouseblewupincentralRiyadh.
Laterthatnight,Iwashavingasheesha-flavoredtobaccoinawaterpipe-withoneofNaif'sassistantsandaskedaboutit.
"Someguy,hehadalotofexplosivesinhishouse,anditblewup,"hesaidunconcernedly.
Itseemedfarmoreominoustome.
Iwantedtoseehowthelawworkedinthekingdom,soinAprilIaskedHasanBaswaidtodoastoryonanewlegalcode,putintoeffectinMay,2002,whichguaranteesdefendantstherighttoconsultwithanattorney.
Italsocontainsaprohibitionagainsttorture.
ThekingdomhadbeenstrugglingtoconformtointernationallegalstandardsinordertosucceedinitsbidtojointheWorldTradeOrganization.
Thereareonlyaboutsevenhundredjudgesintheentirecountry,allofwhomaretrainedexclusivelyinSharia,orIslamiclaw.
BaswaidlandedaninterviewwithKhalidAbuRashid,aprominentattorney,andIwentalong.
IaskedifthenewcodewascreatingaclassofWestern-stylecriminal-defenseattorneys.
"Hereourcasesareverysimple,notcomplicatedlikeinAmerica,"Rashidtoldus.
"Wehavebeenmainlyconcernedwithfinancialcrimes.
Othertypesofcrimes,likemurder,areveryrarehere,andtheyaremainlyrevengekillingsamongtribes.
"Thosescore-settlingsseldomgettocourt,heexplained.
Crimessuchasrobbery,hesaid,"alwayshappenwithforeigners,andwhenthey'recapturedtheyimmediatelyconfess-notjustaboutthenewcrime,butaboutalltherest.
Theydonotaskforlawyers.
"OnthetableinRashid'sofficewerehomemademaamoul-date-filledpastries-andfreshdatesfromhisnativeprovince.
Heworeasilverwatchwithdiamondsthatcaughtthelight.
"ThejudicialsystemisfixedbecauseitdependsonSharia,"hesaid.
"Forexample,theideathatakillershouldbekilledinreturn,thiswillnotchange.
Whatcanchangearetheproceduresthatmustbefollowedbeforeyoucankillsomeone.
"Whenweleft,ImadeajokeabouthoweagerpeopleinSaudiArabiaweretoconfess.
Thejusticesystemoftendemandedtheincontestableproofthatonlyconfessionscanprovide.
AWestern-styleprosecutorialquidproquodidn'tseemtobeoperatinghere:peoplefrequentlyconfessedtocrimesthatguaranteedthemthedeathpenalty.
Torture,Isupposed,wastheunmentionedmotivator.
InFebruary,afterSaudisecurityforcesarrestedtheeightpurportedmembersofAlQaedainconnectionwiththeRiyadhshooting,allthesuspectsconfessedtomurder.
"Thevoluntarysurrenderofculpritstopoliceandtheirconfessionsreaffirmtheirdesiretoreturntotherightpathandcorrecttheirmistakes,"amemberoftheInteriorMinistrytoldAsharqAlAwsat.
Similarly,SaudiauthoritieschargedsevenBritishcitizenswithaseriesofbombingsinRiyadhin2000and2001thatwereallegedtohavebeenpartofamobwaramongbootleggers.
SixofthemconfessedonSauditelevision.
TheGuardianofLondonpublishedastoryarguingthatallthemenweretorturedintomakingthestatements,orelsetheconfessionswerefabricated;thebombings,thepaperinsinuated,werefile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(24of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageactuallytargetedassassinationsbyIslamistsagainstWesternerswhoconsumedalcohol.
Soonafterward,morebombswentoff-yetalltheaccusedmenremainedinjail.
AfterconsiderablepressurebytheBritishgovernment,themenwerereleased.
Oneofthosearrested,RonJones,latersaidthathehadbeenbeatenonthesolesofhisfeet.
Anotherdetaineesaid,"Theythreatenedtoplantdrugsinmyhousetogetmywifeandchildbeheaded.
"ManySaudissaythatthelevelofstateterrorhasdeclined.
Recently,theSaudigovernmenthasallowedahuman-rightsdelegationtomonitorpoliceandprisons.
ButthereisastarkdifferencebetweenthewaytheSaudigovernmenttreatsitsowncitizensandthewayittreatsforeignworkers.
"Thereisahugepopulationthatisnotthoughtofashumanatall,"KhaledAbouElFadl,theU.
C.
L.
A.
lawprofessor,toldme.
"IfyouexcludeIraq,thenSaudiArabiawouldbeoneoftheworstoffendersintheArabworld.
InSaudiArabia,thereisawell-establishedpracticeof'disappearances,'peoplewhohavebeenmissingfortenorfifteenyears.
"InSaudiArabia,thedeathpenaltyisusuallycarriedoutinpublic.
TheseniorpublicexecutionerisamannamedAhmadRezkallah,whohasbeenchoppingofftheheadsofmurderers,rapists,anddrugsmugglersinthepublicsquarefortwenty-threeyears.
Hehaskilledmorethanthreehundredpeopleinthattime,seventyofthemwomen,whoaredispatchedwithtwoshotstothehead.
"MostofthewomenIexecutedwerestrongandcalm,"hetoldAl-Majalla,anArabic-languagemagazinepublishedinLondon.
"Womeningeneralhavenervesofsteel.
"Histechniquewiththemenistopokethecondemnedpersoninthebackwiththetipofhissword,whichcausestheheadtojerkupward.
Thenoffitcomes.
ThepracticeofpublicexecutiongivestheSaudilegalsystemamedievalreputationintheWest.
Admittedly,overthepasttwodecadestherewerefivetimesasmanyexecutionsinSaudiArabiaastherewereinTexas.
However,theSaudimethodsucceedsasdeterrence-crimeisverylow.
Moreover,inTexas,whereIlive,clemencyisasrareasasnowstorm,andthegovernorholdshimselfalooffromtheprocessofpardonsandparoles.
InMeccaprovince,thegovernorhimselfchairsacommitteeofreconciliationthatasksthefamiliesofvictimstosparethelifeoftheconvictedmanorwoman.
Beforekillingthecondemnedperson,theexecutioneronceagainpubliclybegsthefamilyofthevictimtoshowmercy.
"Igoandaskthefamilyofthevictimtogivethecriminalanotherchance,"theexecutionertoldAl-Majalla.
"Ithasworkedmanytimesandthefamilyhasforgiventhecriminalatthelastminute.
Thereisclappingandcheering.
Thescenesofhappinessareindescribable.
"Sometimeswrongedfamilymembersinsistoncarryingouttheexecutionthemselves,whichispermittedinSaudiArabia.
Theyusuallymakeamessofit.
WhenAmericansoldierscrossedintoIraqlastMarch,manySaudiswerefurious.
"TheU.
S.
isdyingtoslaughtertheIraqipeople!
"PrinceAmrMuhammadAlFaisal,anarchitectinJeddah,saidtomeontheeveoftheinvasion.
"They'rethirstyforit!
Theycan'twait!
"Butmanywhodenouncedtheinvasioninfrontoftheirfriendsprivatelyconfessedtomethatatleastapartofthemwelcomedit.
"Thisentireregionisinafossilizedstate,"PrinceAmrconceded.
"WhatishappeninginIraqisgoingtoshakeupthewholebusiness.
Myguessisitwillleadtogreaternationalism.
Therewillbemorerobustparticipationindecision-making,althoughnotnecessarilyademocracylikeintheWest.
""Weneedapush,"onereportertoldme.
"Maybethisisit.
"Theactualpresscoverage,however,wassharplycriticaloftheAmericans.
OnMarch23rd,thefrontpageoftheGazetteshowedanIraqichildwithhisheadblownoff.
TheArabicpressandmanyofthesatellitechannelsframedthebombingofBaghdadas"America'swaronchildren.
"ThelensofAlJazeerafocussedonIraqiskneelinginfrontofthecoalitiontroopswiththeirhandsbehindtheirheads:itwasawardesignedtohumiliatetheArabsonceagain.
TheWahhabiclericsrantedagainsttheinfidels.
"TheCrusadershavecometotakeover!
"oneimaminJeddahintonedinasermon.
TheSaudipublicwasunderstandablyinflamed.
OneJeddahmerchantwavedacopyofAlWataninmyfaceandpointedataphotographofanIraqiboybeingtreatedforhideousburns.
"DoyouthinkhewillgrowupandthinkthatAmericaisagreatnation"themandemanded.
TheGazettehadchosennottosenditsowncorrespondents,eventhoughthewarwasnextdoor.
Itseditorialslantwasclearfromthebeginning.
"woundedu.
s.
soldiersinshockandawe,"readaheadlineaweekafterthewarbegan.
Likeeveryotherpaperinthekingdom,theGazettebegantogloatwhentheIraqitroopsmadeastabfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
.
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htm(25of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageatresistance.
Therewasafront-pagestoryabouttheImamoftheGrandMosquecallingforanendtothe"unjust"war.
"MuslimsacrosstheKingdomprayedforBaghdad'svictoryagainsttheU.
S.
-British'aggressors,'"thestorysaid.
Onesteamyevening,IwenttoasheeshabarwithDr.
KhaledM.
Batarfi,acolumnistforAlMadina(andnowitsmanagingeditor).
Asachild,KhaledhadbeenOsamabinLaden'snext-doorneighbor.
KhaledwasconstantlylaboringforpeaceandwasonamissiontohelpSaudisandWesternersunderstandeachother.
Ihadbecomequitefondofhim.
Webegandiscussingwhatwethoughtwouldbethelong-termeffectofthewaronSaudiArabia.
InKhaled'sopinion,America'saggressionshowedthatitwasintendingtoremaketheMiddleEastinitsimage.
"Butwhatyoureallywantistodividethekingdomintoseveralstatessoyoucantakeouroil,andwewillhavenopowertoresistyou,"hesaid.
ManySaudisbelievedthattheinvasionofIraqwastheopeningactofadramathatwouldendwiththeirmainallyandprotectorconsumingthem.
"ThewholeworldisundoubtedlyseeingtheAmericancowboysashavingcomeforonlyoneaim:killing,destruction,andbloodshed,"Khaled'snewspaperproclaimedinaneditorialthatmorning.
OneoftherelentlessthemesoftheSaudimediawasthatthetwinobjectsofAmericanpowerwereoilandmurder.
Thenextmorning,attheGazetteoffice,Rameshcameintothelocalreporters'roomwithamischievouslookonhisface.
"Well,we'reallpro-Americannow,"hesaid.
"Whatdoyoumean"Hetoldmethatalltheeditorsin-chiefinthekingdomhadbeenorderedtodroptheiranti-Americanline.
Atlunchthatday,IaskedKhaledBatarfiifAlMadinawasreallygoingtochangeitseditorials.
Hegavemearesignednod.
"Theeditorsweretold,'Nomorepicturesofdeadbabies.
Also,don'tcallitaninvasion.
'"Indeed,bythenextmorningtheentireSaudipresshadmoderateditspositiononthewar.
Itwasastrangeexperienceforme,withallmypreachingabouttheneedforafreepress.
Thenewspaperssuddenlyappearedmoresoberandresponsible,andIfeltasulliedsenseofrelief.
Inthedaysafterthewar,reportsbegantoappearaboutyoungSaudiswhohadrespondedtothecallsforjihadagainsttheAnglo-Americancoalition.
"volunteersachievemartyrdom"ishowitwasreportedintheGazette.
Oneofmyreporters,whohadlostafriendinIraq,invitedmetomeetsomeotheryoungmembersofhistribe.
TheywereBedouins,andinsidethemiddle-classapartmentinsouthJeddahwherehisbrotherlivedtherewasaroomthatreplicatedadeserttent-theceilingdrapedwithfabric,andbolstersontherugtoleanagainstaswesippedtea.
Insidethetentwerefourmenintheirtwenties.
Thedeathofafriendwasnothingnew,theytoldme;theyhadalreadylostanumberofyoungmalerelativesinAfghanistan,andanotheroneinIraq.
IaskedthemhowtheythoughtSaudiArabiawouldbedifferenttenyearsfromnow.
Theyoungestofthem,whohadawispybeard,said,"IthinktheAmericanswillinvadeSaudiArabia,andaquarterofthepopulationwillbeinAmericanjails.
"AnothertoldmethatheprayedtheSaudigovernmentwouldevolveintoapureIslamicstate,followingtheTalibanmodel.
TheoldestBedouinwasadelicatemanwithlongfinefingersandapointedgoateethatgavehimanobleandslightlystylizedappearance.
Hisroundwire-rimmedglassescaughtwhateverdimlighttherewasinsidethepavilion,makingithardtoreadhiseyes.
Iwasdrawntohim,perhapsbecauseofhisintellectualismandhisromantic,revolutionaryair.
Themanwhowaskilledwashiscousin.
IaskedhimwhatforcehadpulledhisrelativetoIraq.
"It'swhenyouhavethispowerinsideyou-andinthisclosedcountryyoucan'tgetitout-thatyougotosuchplaces,"hetoldme.
Hiscousincouldn'tfindajob,hecontinued,andhedidn'thavetheconnectionstogetintothemilitary.
Hehimselfhadexperiencedthesameproblems.
"SincethefirstGulfcrisis,Igraduatedwithagoodmajor,andthegovernmentpromisedmealotofthings,"hewenton.
"IhavetheambitiontohaveaPh.
D.
oragreatjob,andIfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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%20rare%20look%20inside%20a%20closed%20society.
htm(26of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessagesuddenlyfoundthatthegovernmentputanewrule.
Theystoppedanynewgovernmentemployment!
Thepriceofelectricityandgasdoubled,andthephone,andevenriceandsugar.
Buttheysaidbepatient,wehavetopaythepriceofthewar.
Theypromiseditwasjustforashortperiod.
It'sbeenthirteenyearsnow!
Igraduatedsevenyearsagoandstillhavenojob.
"Hesaidheoftenthoughtaboutbecomingamartyrhimself,likehiscousin,whomusthavegonedirectlytoParadise.
"Paradiseisbetterthanthismiserablelife!
"Iaskedhimwhathehadstudiedinschool.
"Libraryscience.
"Withalltheirtalkaboutmartyrdom,therewasanotherdarkthoughtintheirminds.
"ItmightbegovernmentpolicytosendtheseguystoIraq,insteadofhavingthemhere,actingup,"theoldestonesaid.
"Whoareyoutalkingabout"Iasked.
"Whoissendingthem""Somebodywhowantstomakemoralpointsaroundtheworld.
Theywanttohavetheseguysgetkilledinsteadofstayinginthecountryandhelpingitout.
"Theothersnodded.
Theysawaconspiracybetweentheclergyandthegovernment-aplottoeliminatethem,theunemployedSaudis.
"It'sbeenaholocaustforyoungpeople,what'shappenedinIraqandAfghanistan,"thelibrariansaid.
Theseyoungmenrecognizedthepointlessnessofjihad,atleastthewayitwasbeingpromotedbythebloodthirstyclerics-whowere,afterall,governmentemployees.
Therehadtobeareasonthatthegovernmentwouldallowsuchdangeroustalk,andinthemindsoftheseyoungmenthereasonwasthattheywereexpendable.
Andapartofthemsaidyestothat.
Theywantedout,andtheonlyexitwasParadise.
ImetmyreportersforthefinaltimeintheGazetteconferenceroom.
IhadadeepsenseofdisappointmentabouthowlittleIhadaccomplished.
Manyofthestoriesmyreportershadlaboredovernevergotpublished.
Therewereafewgoodpieces,suchasaprofileNajlahadwrittenoftheAmericanconsul-generalinJeddah,GinaAbercrombie-Winstanley,butDr.
Yusufwasangrythatthepiecehadnotbeenclearedwithhim.
Ihandedoutafewmementos,includingTexasLonghornkeychainsforthewomen,forthedaywhentheyfinallycoulddrive.
Therewasabrieffarewellpartyforme,withpunchandpastries.
Dr.
Yusufgavemeawatch.
Thepartywasdelayedabitbymyinsistencethatthewomenbeallowedtoattend.
Najlahandedmeacardthateveryonehadsigned.
Isaidgoodbyewithoutonceseeingherface.
HasanHatrashwasn'tthere.
Ifoundhiminthecafeteria,hisshouldershunched,drinkingacupofteaandpickingatahalf-eatenpieceofchocolatecake.
Helookedshattered.
"Ijustgotoutofthehospital,"hetoldme.
"ThedoctortoldmeIshouldn'tdrive,butIwantedtocomehereandseeyou.
"Hesaidhehadlowbloodpressure,butthatwasn'ttherealproblem.
"Itoldthedoctor,whenIsleepIcan'twakeup.
Ican'tevenputmythoughtstogether!
Hesaidthat'sdepression.
"HeseemedtomelikemanyotheryoungSaudis,whoselivesaresounrealizedandunexpressed.
Iwantedtogivehimsomefinalwordofadvice,butIcouldthinkofnothingusefultosay.
OnMay12th,afewweeksafterIleftthekingdom,AlQaedabombedthreeRiyadhhousingcompounds,killingthirty-four.
AsubsequentbombinginNovemberkilledeighteen.
Throughoutthefallandintowinter,therehavebeenfrequentraidsandshoot-outswithsuspectedterrorists,andSaudiauthoritiesclaimtohavepreventedseveralothercatastrophicattacks,includingatleastonedirectedattheroyalfamily.
Reformershaveseizeduponthisvolatilemomenttocampaignforcertainprogressivechanges,suchasanindependentjudiciaryandpopularelections.
ThegovernmenthasbegunaverydifficultprocessoftryingtobridletheradicalvoicesinthemosquesandcullcertainhatefulpassagesfromthetextbooksusedinSaudiclassrooms.
Thepresswasallowedtocovertheseeventsmorefreelythaninthepast;thenagain,thecoverageservedthegovernment'sinterestinquellingfile:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/Sam/My%20Doc.
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htm(27of28)2/1/20069:47:48PMMessageWesterncriticsoftheregime.
WhenIreadsomeofthesemorecandidreports,myoptimismabouttheSaudipressresurfaced.
InMarch,JamalKhashoggiwashiredtobetheeditor-in-chiefofAlWatan-asign,perhaps,thatthegovernmentwasgoingtoallowthepressmorefreedom.
And,indeed,KhashoggipublishedsearchingarticlesaboutthelegacyofWahhabismandcartoonsridiculingthereligiouspoliceandthecorruptclergywhoencouragedthesuicideofMuslimyouth.
"Thosewhocommittedyesterday'scrimearenotonlythesuicideterrorists,butalsoeveryonewhoinstigatedorjustifiedtheattacks,everyonewhocalledthemmujahideen,eveneveryonewhokeptsilent,"KhashoggiwroteaftertheMaybombings.
ButdayslaterKhashoggiwasfired.
Soonafterward,HusseinShobokshi,thebusinessmanwhohadbeenplanningtheclass-actionsuitaboutJeddah'ssewageproblem,wroteacolumninOkazinwhichhefantasizedaboutafutureSaudiArabia.
Thestoryispowerfulbecauseitseemssoordinary,andsounreachable.
HewritesaboutreturningfromabusinesstripinRiyadh,wherehehasreceivedaprizeonbehalfofthekingdomfromaninternationalhuman-rightsconference.
Hisdaughter,alawyer,pickshimupattheairportanddriveshimtotheoffice.
Ontheway,theytalkaboutvotinginthemunicipalelectionsthenextmorning.
Hetellshertohurry,becausehedoesn'twanttomissthebroadcastofthefinanceministerproposinganationalbudget.
AfterthearticleappearedinOkaz,thegovernmentorderedthepapertostoppublishingShobokshi'scolumn.
SoonafterIreturnedhome,Najlawrotemeanotesayingthatshehadbeenfired.
Sheaskedformyhelpinfindingajob.
ThenIheardfromMamdouhal-Harthy,whosaidthathehadquittheGazetteandwantedtogotojournalismschoolintheWest.
AndHasanHatrashwrotetosaythathe'dgonetoMalaysiaforavacation.
OnedayinKualaLumpur,hewasinvitedtoplaywithaband.
"Ihadthetimeofmylife,andthenumberofchickswhowantedtotalktomewasmorethanIcouldhandle,"hereported.
"Thegoodnewsis,theyinvitedmetoplaywiththemintheirsecondgigatabiggerclubonSunday.
Wow!
Finally,I'mliving!
"Hedecidednottogohome.
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